According to fanciful legend, Ulysses established Lisbon. Scholars and less romantically inclined observers argue that Phoenician sailors were probably the first settlers - at least they were the first to be documented. Later, explorers led by Vasco da Gama, departed from Lisbon in search of a route to India. Instead, they discovered new lands. Sailors under command of Pedro Alvares Cabral reached Brazil.
In 1755 the majority of Lisbon’s buildings were completely destroyed by a massive earthquake that they continue to talk about today. In 1834 all of the monasteries and convents were ousted with the extinction of the religious orders and they were all confiscated and sold off to private owners.
We have scheduled another tour with Top Day Tours for today. We consist of six plus Antonio, our guide. On our agenda is an overview of Lisbon with its ancient now defunct monasteries, and the towns of Sintra and Estoril. In old Lisboa we encounter steep narrow cobbled streets that are barely wide enough to accommodate our vehicle without scraping the sides of buildings on either side. In some cases pedestrians must turn, back against the wall to avoid our side mirrors. Antonio is not as forthcoming with historic information as our other guides have been. He rushes almost willy nilly from one place to the next with little explanation until both Michelle and I begin to throw questions at him. Some he gives grudging information about, others he just says “it’s a building, nothing to know about it.” Oh boy, this is gonna be a
fuuun day. He seems more interested in showing us all the five star hotels and the million dollar plus condos.
Finally he stops so we can take a few pictures at the top of a boulevard overlooking the city and the sea. It appears to be some kind of commemorative, possibly for Portuguese independence, mind you I speak even less Portuguese than I do Spanish or Italian, but how would we know since all our Antonio says is it’s a good place for pictures and views, nothing more. I have spotted a very old woman and her husband selling dishtowels and other souvenirs on the sidewalk just up from us. Antonio doesn’t look very happy when I approach and start looking at her offerings. He has already said he will take us to a shop in Sintra for our shopping. Still, I like to buy early and at a reasonable price and in most cases have found that local sidewalk vendors off the beaten path and not in a storefront have better bargains. So I buy embroidered dishtowels for E1 each and return to the van. Now it has become a challenge to see how much information Antonio will give without verbal cues. He keeps asking what we want to see and do. We keep telling him we want to see his country and learn as much as we can in this one day that we have. We tell him we consider him the professional and will put ourselves in his hands. He doesn’t want any part of it so he asks again what we want to see and do, but he could take us here or there he says. Ooookay, well we will get it figured out I’m sure by the end of the day. And if not, Lisbon will be here next time and Antonio will not make a very good tip today. Mr Passive/Aggressive will not get the best of us!
That decision made, off we go to Sintra, another cobbled partially walled town that has great architecture and beautiful scenery ranging from gently rolling hills to steep rocky mountains with chasms of sheer rock covered in trees that cling to life by sheer terror and determination. Our ultimate destination here is Parque e Palacio da Pena (The Park & Palace of Pena’) built between 1842 and 1854 by Don Fernando II on the site, purchased in 1838, of one of those “abandoned” monasteries I mentioned earlier. The palace is located at the crest of a small mountain, surrounded by almost 85 hectares of historic gardens that transformed a barren hill into the first Cultural Landscape listed by UNESCO in Europe. The road leading to Pena’ is steep and winding so we ask to stop so we can take a few pictures of the castle. Antonio is very willing and starts to pull to the side of the road. Suddenly he makes a decision! Turning into a driveway leading to what looks like a private home, but is now a five star hotel, he says he knows a great place to get pictures of the castle! Antonio, you may have almost redeemed yourself! The Tivoli is the epitome of a French villa with sculptured lawns, secret gardens with maze-like hedges, and stone arches leading to shade covered benches with views through the arch of the castle atop the mountain. WOW!!! what a great vista point. We get some wonderful pictures before we head out for the top of the mountain and the castle.
Ever heard the saying about having more money than taste or brains? Pena’ Palace, is a five story testimony and the perfect example of opulent overkill using every architectural style and embellishment available, put together by a delusional child with telekinetic powers and a bad temper. ZAP!, a gargoyle! WHAM!, a Moorish arch! BAM!, a turret! WHOOSH!, a tile encrusted arch leading to a tiny courtyard! POW! Knights in armor on handmade 4in x 4in tiles covering an entire wall next to another wall covered in tile depicting acanthus leaves, next to an adjacent wall with tile depicting geometric patterns! You get dizzy taking it all in because your eyes are bouncing around like a ping pong ball in a spinning dryer. Why would someone build something like this you ask? Simply because they can. Don‘t get me wrong. I love this place. It is said that it is the “finest example of 19th century Portuguese Romanticism and the integration of natural and built heritage“. And remember my motto-(or at least one of them) “There is nothing wrong with more.”
After our visit we remind Antonio that we wanted to locate a place to buy tiles from the area, to which he says that we didn’t want to stop in Sintra before and we reminded him of the crowds and traffic. So, almost begrudgingly, back to Sintra for shopping we go. Antonio bypasses several places Michelle asked to stop at saying he knows a better place that will be one stop shopping just up the street. Uh oh, sounds like code for commission paid environment. We agree to meet back at the van in 30 minutes and everyone scatters to the four winds much to Antonio‘s dismay.
I am not going to even talk about the overpriced tourist trap restaurant by the sea we were taken to for lunch. We moved on, without a meal, to the “Portuguese Riviera” city of Estoril. Estoril is the Portuguese equivalent of Monte Carlo. It was the home of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor until they became too friendly with the Germans during WWII and were relegated to the Caribbean. Here live the very rich and famous. They also have a casino and yachts. That said, the town is still picturesque and has many beautiful historic homes and buildings.
On down the coast we go back to Lisbon and finally our ship. All day we have been seeing colorful roosters on dishtowels, key chains and all kinds of other souvenirs. We asked Antonio what it represented and got one of the famous non answers about it represents Portugal. Finally we find a local who is willing to tell us the Portuguesa rooster is a good luck symbol. So I buy one for my charm bracelet and we get on the ship in just enough time to head for dinner. We are starving since we have split only a small fish empanada and a beer the entire day since the lunch location didn’t work out. Ummm… dinner was wonderful.
P.S.- Antonio didn't make out well today with tips or a free lunch in the expensive restaurant he took us to.
We love to travel. People tell me I should be a travel agent because of all the things we do,the places we go, and the money we save. Our grandaughter,Sophia,tells everyone that we are on a "field trip" while we are gone, thus the name. I hope you find helpful, interesting information about different locales, ideas on how to get the most for your money, and be entertained in the process. Welcome. Connie
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Civitavecchia, Italy
The ship provided shuttle took us through the port to Fort Michelangelo. We spent the day exploring this bustling city.
Civitavecchia means “Ancient Town”. Evidence shows that people lived here before history was ever recorded. This port city was built by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd Century and became one of the most important cities of ancient Rome. The Middle Ages brought a final period of general lawlessness to the Mediterranean region. The port was sacked and burned several times in the 15th century.
Once again we had rain showers and a brisk breeze, so our first order of business was to replace the umbrella we broke in Venice. We found a tiny souvenir shop that was advertised on every street corner from the time we got off the shuttle. Frank’s Place carried a limited number of Italy souvenirs, 6-8 different local wines, a few books and one umbrella that Frank discounted for me since we bought a bottle of wine and a Book with DVD of Rome. His prices were less than most of the other souvenir kiosks we find on our travels and Frank’s English was that wonderful lilting sing song of Italy. Frank thanked us sincerely and extracted a promise that we would stop in next year when we came back through. The wine by the way was excellent.
From there we walked up several blocks and cut back in toward the center of town. Here we found a large open air market containing some of the most beautiful fruits, vegetables and flowers we have seen to date. Persimmons as big as Tony’s fist in the brightest hot-yellow-orange, small aubergere eggplants the perfect size for stuffing or breading and frying in olive oil, dazzling gerbera daisies in myriads of colors mixed with sunflowers, button and spiked chrysanthemums, leather fern, carnations, roses, banana leaves, and more, in bunches small and large. I was so tempted to purchase a mixed bunch for our cabin onboard, but I could see Tony looking at me like I was crazy so I resisted the temptation. We continued out the other end of the huge tent into a square we hadn’t known was there. Here was even more of what we had just seen in the open with individual market umbrellas over the stalls. Next to this was a semi enclosed tent building that held permanent shops for meats, cheeses, butter, olives, sun dried tomatoes, plastic tubes of tomato paste, dried red chile peppers woven onto ropes, and a plethora of other food stuffs. Alas, we are not allowed to bring any spices back into the country that are not sealed in airtight packages. But the smell is wonderful!
The outside corners contained small shops selling sweaters, scarves, blouses, and other manner of clothing. Most of it in sizes that might accommodate my arm or leg with the help of numerous safety pins and an abundance of stretching. A few steps past this market and across a narrow cobbled street is an equally huge flea market with everything from duct tape to underwear. Here I purchase several pashminas for just a few Euro each. I bought some last year in Rome and everyone loved them. Such pretty and inexpensive souvenirs that pack wonderfully!
We venture back downhill toward our beginning point. We follow our noses, once more, to a small leather shop on the corner before the main street. Here I purchase a wonderful classic leather tote/purse for E35 that is soft and pliable and will probably outlast me and get passed on to Sophia. I purchase a second one for Lee Anne as a birthday present.
We make a stop for a cup of coffee and free WiFi before heading back to the ship. And of course our server is down at home. So much for saving a few bucks from our onboard plan. On our way we spot a phone center and decide to call Annie instead of the usual email. For E.60 cent connect fee and E.10 cents per minute we can call and talk for a few minutes. It is 3 am at home but she is glad to hear from us and we assure ourselves that “all is well on the Western Front” for a grand total of E1.
Back onboard we get comfy and warm with another cup of coffee and our books on the Lido while we watch the new passengers board and start learning their way around their new home for the next 18 days.
Civitavecchia means “Ancient Town”. Evidence shows that people lived here before history was ever recorded. This port city was built by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd Century and became one of the most important cities of ancient Rome. The Middle Ages brought a final period of general lawlessness to the Mediterranean region. The port was sacked and burned several times in the 15th century.
Once again we had rain showers and a brisk breeze, so our first order of business was to replace the umbrella we broke in Venice. We found a tiny souvenir shop that was advertised on every street corner from the time we got off the shuttle. Frank’s Place carried a limited number of Italy souvenirs, 6-8 different local wines, a few books and one umbrella that Frank discounted for me since we bought a bottle of wine and a Book with DVD of Rome. His prices were less than most of the other souvenir kiosks we find on our travels and Frank’s English was that wonderful lilting sing song of Italy. Frank thanked us sincerely and extracted a promise that we would stop in next year when we came back through. The wine by the way was excellent.
From there we walked up several blocks and cut back in toward the center of town. Here we found a large open air market containing some of the most beautiful fruits, vegetables and flowers we have seen to date. Persimmons as big as Tony’s fist in the brightest hot-yellow-orange, small aubergere eggplants the perfect size for stuffing or breading and frying in olive oil, dazzling gerbera daisies in myriads of colors mixed with sunflowers, button and spiked chrysanthemums, leather fern, carnations, roses, banana leaves, and more, in bunches small and large. I was so tempted to purchase a mixed bunch for our cabin onboard, but I could see Tony looking at me like I was crazy so I resisted the temptation. We continued out the other end of the huge tent into a square we hadn’t known was there. Here was even more of what we had just seen in the open with individual market umbrellas over the stalls. Next to this was a semi enclosed tent building that held permanent shops for meats, cheeses, butter, olives, sun dried tomatoes, plastic tubes of tomato paste, dried red chile peppers woven onto ropes, and a plethora of other food stuffs. Alas, we are not allowed to bring any spices back into the country that are not sealed in airtight packages. But the smell is wonderful!
The outside corners contained small shops selling sweaters, scarves, blouses, and other manner of clothing. Most of it in sizes that might accommodate my arm or leg with the help of numerous safety pins and an abundance of stretching. A few steps past this market and across a narrow cobbled street is an equally huge flea market with everything from duct tape to underwear. Here I purchase several pashminas for just a few Euro each. I bought some last year in Rome and everyone loved them. Such pretty and inexpensive souvenirs that pack wonderfully!
We venture back downhill toward our beginning point. We follow our noses, once more, to a small leather shop on the corner before the main street. Here I purchase a wonderful classic leather tote/purse for E35 that is soft and pliable and will probably outlast me and get passed on to Sophia. I purchase a second one for Lee Anne as a birthday present.
We make a stop for a cup of coffee and free WiFi before heading back to the ship. And of course our server is down at home. So much for saving a few bucks from our onboard plan. On our way we spot a phone center and decide to call Annie instead of the usual email. For E.60 cent connect fee and E.10 cents per minute we can call and talk for a few minutes. It is 3 am at home but she is glad to hear from us and we assure ourselves that “all is well on the Western Front” for a grand total of E1.
Back onboard we get comfy and warm with another cup of coffee and our books on the Lido while we watch the new passengers board and start learning their way around their new home for the next 18 days.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Kotor, Montenegro
It is a short sail from Dubrovnik to this picturesque town farther down the coast in the tiny country of Montenegro. We have decided to dub this “field trip” Land of the Walled Cities. So far we have had walled towns at each of out ports of call with more to come. Each has been amazing.
All of these countries were feudal in the middle ages and therefore their fortifications were extensive. In addition this part of the world was forever on the move to expand and explore with one kingdom, fiefdom, or tribe trying to conquer and subdue their neighbor even if that neighbor was a continent or two away.
Kotor was no exception to any of these, so, the fortifications made sense if they were to preserve any independence. As we look from our balcony we see 1350 steps leading zigzag up an almost sheer rock mountain to a fort overlooking the bay. This bay is twenty two miles deep and the city of Kotor lays at the very end.
Once again we see lovely homes, walls, streets, roads and docks made of rock. Today we have chosen to stay onboard as it is pouring rain again and we must tender into this port. If the rain stops for a period later we might decide to venture ashore. Then again the view is quite lovely and the ship is oh so quiet and calm with most of the passengers shoving, pushing and all around jockeying for position in line and on land to “get their monies worth”. Some days we just defy the crowds and choose not to participate and we have all the deck chairs, hot tubs, pools, and saunas to ourselves. We win, neener neener !!
No one knows exactly when Kotor was founded. The name is Greek meaning “wells” but there were residents here long before Greek settlers arrived. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities and was designed with dual purposes : aesthetic beauty and an attempt to thwart invaders. Its main fortification was a wall, 3 miles long, 60 foot high, and 45 feet thick! Needless to say it still exists.
All of these countries were feudal in the middle ages and therefore their fortifications were extensive. In addition this part of the world was forever on the move to expand and explore with one kingdom, fiefdom, or tribe trying to conquer and subdue their neighbor even if that neighbor was a continent or two away.
Kotor was no exception to any of these, so, the fortifications made sense if they were to preserve any independence. As we look from our balcony we see 1350 steps leading zigzag up an almost sheer rock mountain to a fort overlooking the bay. This bay is twenty two miles deep and the city of Kotor lays at the very end.
Once again we see lovely homes, walls, streets, roads and docks made of rock. Today we have chosen to stay onboard as it is pouring rain again and we must tender into this port. If the rain stops for a period later we might decide to venture ashore. Then again the view is quite lovely and the ship is oh so quiet and calm with most of the passengers shoving, pushing and all around jockeying for position in line and on land to “get their monies worth”. Some days we just defy the crowds and choose not to participate and we have all the deck chairs, hot tubs, pools, and saunas to ourselves. We win, neener neener !!
No one knows exactly when Kotor was founded. The name is Greek meaning “wells” but there were residents here long before Greek settlers arrived. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities and was designed with dual purposes : aesthetic beauty and an attempt to thwart invaders. Its main fortification was a wall, 3 miles long, 60 foot high, and 45 feet thick! Needless to say it still exists.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Dubrovnik, Croasia
From the time we sailed out of Venice through the Grand Canal until we docked in Dubrovnik it rained. Then almost like one of the Gods smiling the clouds and wind and rain retreated and our day in this lovely place was perfect.
This medieval town boasts a walled city that has survived just about anything one can imagine. Richard the Lion Heart was here during the Crusades along with conquerors from almost ever other era of history and yet Dubrovnik not only survives but flourishes within its natural beauty. Beauty that is polished and clean and unassuming. We couldn’t get over the fact that unlike other ancient sites we have visited, this one is CLEAN!!! No litter anywhere. It was a bit eerie at first because it seemed almost too perfect.
Picture if you will the landscape of, The Sound of Music, and Heidi minus the snow. A walled city that defies the reality of the Serb war in the early 90’s. All the streets are cobbled stone. From one corner to the next are open air cafés, tiny stores tucked into niches in the walls, local vendors set up along outer walls, churches with quiet, cool, dark interiors that give shelter from the noise of the tourists who flock here. The main attraction in the walled city is to climb the many steps to the top of the wall and then walk the wall that encircles the town. We were with our dinner mates Trevor and Frieda thankfully, so we didn’t walk the wall but we did walk completely around the entire city and that was enough. My short little legs were very tired since I usually end up taking 3 steps to everyone else’s one in order to keep up. Ah such are the challenges of a short fluffy person.
We found a local craft and farmers market taking place in one of the courtyards in the center of town. As we came around the corner the smell of lavender engulfed us. Evidently the harvest had recently taken place because there was everything imaginable containing lavender. Offerings included lavender infused olive oil, lavender sachets, lavender wands, lavendersoaps, even lavender liqueurs. The last of these were a little off putting to me but others were buying them. Dubrovnik also offers embroidery and other handmade items such as crochet, and olive oil with different herbs and flowers to scent and season. I purchased a tiny bottle of cherry liqueur and a small pinwheel patterned doily that reminded me of one Grandma Recupero had made for me 40 years ago. That and a postcard were my only souvenirs of this little kingdom by the sea.
We were in this port until midnight and some of the other passengers were returning to town for a concert in the evening. Not us, our day was complete and it was time for the hot tub and a lounge chair to put ones feet up. And maybe a nap before dinner? Hmmm… why not.
This medieval town boasts a walled city that has survived just about anything one can imagine. Richard the Lion Heart was here during the Crusades along with conquerors from almost ever other era of history and yet Dubrovnik not only survives but flourishes within its natural beauty. Beauty that is polished and clean and unassuming. We couldn’t get over the fact that unlike other ancient sites we have visited, this one is CLEAN!!! No litter anywhere. It was a bit eerie at first because it seemed almost too perfect.
Picture if you will the landscape of, The Sound of Music, and Heidi minus the snow. A walled city that defies the reality of the Serb war in the early 90’s. All the streets are cobbled stone. From one corner to the next are open air cafés, tiny stores tucked into niches in the walls, local vendors set up along outer walls, churches with quiet, cool, dark interiors that give shelter from the noise of the tourists who flock here. The main attraction in the walled city is to climb the many steps to the top of the wall and then walk the wall that encircles the town. We were with our dinner mates Trevor and Frieda thankfully, so we didn’t walk the wall but we did walk completely around the entire city and that was enough. My short little legs were very tired since I usually end up taking 3 steps to everyone else’s one in order to keep up. Ah such are the challenges of a short fluffy person.
We found a local craft and farmers market taking place in one of the courtyards in the center of town. As we came around the corner the smell of lavender engulfed us. Evidently the harvest had recently taken place because there was everything imaginable containing lavender. Offerings included lavender infused olive oil, lavender sachets, lavender wands, lavendersoaps, even lavender liqueurs. The last of these were a little off putting to me but others were buying them. Dubrovnik also offers embroidery and other handmade items such as crochet, and olive oil with different herbs and flowers to scent and season. I purchased a tiny bottle of cherry liqueur and a small pinwheel patterned doily that reminded me of one Grandma Recupero had made for me 40 years ago. That and a postcard were my only souvenirs of this little kingdom by the sea.
We were in this port until midnight and some of the other passengers were returning to town for a concert in the evening. Not us, our day was complete and it was time for the hot tub and a lounge chair to put ones feet up. And maybe a nap before dinner? Hmmm… why not.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Corfu, Greece
Corfu is one of those places that seems like a small village instead of a bustling seaport. We decided to walk around and soak up the local color. Once again crumbling buildings with vine draped balconies, worn and warped shutters that are in varying stages of closed, open, gaping, barely cracked open and/or covered with beautiful handmade curtains to let in the light and air but keep prying eyes out.
The downtown area and walled old town are quite a distance from the port and taxis are very expensive even if you share. We heard tales of drivers changing the amount of the fare after discovering 4 people were riding instead of two. So rather than argue we walked around the neighborhoods near the port.
The atmosphere was relaxed and quiet. We visited tiny local markets with fresh fruits and veggies for sale plus a meat market filled with chickens, beef, veal and tenderloin, all ready to be cut and wrapped at the customers request. Of course, being near the port there was an abundance of pizzerias, coffee shops and restaurants all boasting what they think the average tourist will want. We on this windy but sunny day, however, were more impressed with the little open air places a few blocks inland. Here, it seemed all the local old men were gathered round tables with their dogs at their feet discussing whatever old men with dogs who live on Corfu discuss every morning at their local coffee house. We figured they were probably speculating on how strange we were to be walking around taking pictures of abandoned factories and broken tiles and shutters. But what they don’t know is I have a motive for wanting pictures of all this stuff. I just haven’t quite figured out exactly what yet. But give me time and I will have an epiphany I am sure.
After a few hours my legs were starting to get tired so we reversed our course and headed in the general direction of the sea. It didn’t take us long to get back where we had started from.
We were surprised that there were no vendors hawking their wares outside the port entrance so we ended up shopping in a very reasonably priced duty free shop just before boarding the ship. Here we bought kumquat jelly, olive oil, soap, several other gifts and the worst bottle of red wine I think I have ever tasted. In the past we have had very good luck purchasing inexpensive local wine, but this was an exception. I can’t even give the excuse that it was only E5 since we have had E5 wine that was quite palatable. So, lesson learned? Don’t buy E5 wine in Corfu at the duty free store.
The downtown area and walled old town are quite a distance from the port and taxis are very expensive even if you share. We heard tales of drivers changing the amount of the fare after discovering 4 people were riding instead of two. So rather than argue we walked around the neighborhoods near the port.
The atmosphere was relaxed and quiet. We visited tiny local markets with fresh fruits and veggies for sale plus a meat market filled with chickens, beef, veal and tenderloin, all ready to be cut and wrapped at the customers request. Of course, being near the port there was an abundance of pizzerias, coffee shops and restaurants all boasting what they think the average tourist will want. We on this windy but sunny day, however, were more impressed with the little open air places a few blocks inland. Here, it seemed all the local old men were gathered round tables with their dogs at their feet discussing whatever old men with dogs who live on Corfu discuss every morning at their local coffee house. We figured they were probably speculating on how strange we were to be walking around taking pictures of abandoned factories and broken tiles and shutters. But what they don’t know is I have a motive for wanting pictures of all this stuff. I just haven’t quite figured out exactly what yet. But give me time and I will have an epiphany I am sure.
After a few hours my legs were starting to get tired so we reversed our course and headed in the general direction of the sea. It didn’t take us long to get back where we had started from.
We were surprised that there were no vendors hawking their wares outside the port entrance so we ended up shopping in a very reasonably priced duty free shop just before boarding the ship. Here we bought kumquat jelly, olive oil, soap, several other gifts and the worst bottle of red wine I think I have ever tasted. In the past we have had very good luck purchasing inexpensive local wine, but this was an exception. I can’t even give the excuse that it was only E5 since we have had E5 wine that was quite palatable. So, lesson learned? Don’t buy E5 wine in Corfu at the duty free store.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Malaga, Spain
Malaga was already established when Phoenicians reached Spain. Historians say they came from Tyre and Sidon 50 years after Troy was destroyed in 1184 BC, however archaeological evidence reveals no permanent coastal settlement until almost half a millennium later.
The Moors invaded Andalusia in 711 AD. They stayed for over 700 years until Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed their land around 1492.
There are three buses today. We board our bus after a slight delay. Seems the port authority waited for our ship to clear before they would allow the private tours to enter. And our ship was late docking. Our driver is Jose’ and our bus guide is Debbie from England. From the beginning we knew this would be a different tour than we have had, since there was a total of 18 in our group and some were already complaining about getting a late start. Debbie explains that today is the beginning of a holiday weekend and with the possibility of heavy return traffic we will plan to leave Granada by 2:15 for arrival at the port by 4:30. Immediately we have protests that we are getting cheated out of almost an hour of our tour time because the tour company was late picking us up and the fact that we are not required to be back on board until 5:30 for a 6pm sailing. Next comes a statement from a gentleman that as many of us as there are the ship will wait if we are late. At this point I had bitten my tongue as long as possible. I informed the gentleman he didn’t know what he was talking about since we were on a private tour and the ship is only held for ship sponsored tours. There was finally agreement from others and he admitted this was his first private tour and perhaps he might be wrong. But he and his wife continued to complain about getting back so early. All this before we ever got out of Malaga!!! Let’s get to the fun part people!!!
Today our adventure is to Granada for a tour of the Alhambra (red place), one of Moorish Spain’s most familiar monuments. Our guide is Patricia’ (Pah tree see ah) another redhead with wonderful knowledge to share with us. Our “ah ha” moment today is the meaning of having cypress trees planted at the entrance to your home. One represents drink, meaning that you are welcome to stop to refresh yourself. Two is for food and drink. Three is for food, drink, and lodging. However if there are none, don’t stop because you are not welcome. All rightey then...remind me to plant cypress next to my front porch, but, in pots, so depending on how my day is going I can add or remove part or all of the invitation.
The complex includes the Royal Palace of the Arabic Kings and the Granadan Alcazaba (fortress). Built by Ismael I and modified by Muhammad V the stronghold and grounds are remarkably preserved. The gardens alone require the services of 68 gardeners to keep them in top form. Tile work and inlaid and carved wood ceilings are the order of the day along with Moorish arches, grille work and of course balconies. Fountains, every conceivable plant and topiaries grown into walls and carved like arched courtyards are around every turn. Walkways and courtyards are paved with inlaid geometric designs made from white and black rock laid flat and on side to roll and undulate in and around stairs and ramps. It is more than I can describe here because my eyes and camera were never still for the entire three hours we toured. At the end of our time Patricia’ told us we had walked almost 5 miles and climbed between 300-400 steps. Whew!!! It rained lightly off and on throughout our tour but the beauty of this place makes the weather forgettable.
Debbie announces that we will go into Granada for a brief time since there were complaints about not getting time in the city. This starts another debate with the same couple who were being “cheated” before. Now they have decided they don’t want to walk in the rain and want to stay on the bus. Debbie says sorry, no can do, everyone’s gotta get off. We are smiling hugely at Debbie as we jaunt down the mountain into Grenada.
We need sustenance! Down the hill and into the city of Granada we go. We are
given a bit of free time to explore and find lunch. Susan, David, Tony and I choose a quaint little restaurant just as they let us off the bus at the intersection and tell us what time to be back. Meson’ Gregorio resembles a tiny French or Italian villa with plastered walls, tiled roof and wonderful smells emanating from inside . It was established here in 1955. Good choice we think. Downstairs is a bar, upstairs the dining room. We tell our waiter we would like to once again sample so we order three different meals and he brings us salad and plates for sharing. We order a bottle of red wine and end up ordering another. Our meal is wonderful. We have chosen ham croquettes, pork tenderloins, salad and a meat and cheese board. He also brings a plate of deep fried anchovies or sardines. We don’t know which but they were very tasty.
Time to head back to our bus and listen to complaints about the lack of choices on where to eat and not having enough time and no menus in English and the rain. We are laughing and joking as we board and make sure we described our meal and the two bottles of wine in minute detail, with wide smiles full of both sarcasm and much joviality. Ahhhhh, that second bottle of wine really made the difference in the atmosphere of our return trip.
The Moors invaded Andalusia in 711 AD. They stayed for over 700 years until Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed their land around 1492.
There are three buses today. We board our bus after a slight delay. Seems the port authority waited for our ship to clear before they would allow the private tours to enter. And our ship was late docking. Our driver is Jose’ and our bus guide is Debbie from England. From the beginning we knew this would be a different tour than we have had, since there was a total of 18 in our group and some were already complaining about getting a late start. Debbie explains that today is the beginning of a holiday weekend and with the possibility of heavy return traffic we will plan to leave Granada by 2:15 for arrival at the port by 4:30. Immediately we have protests that we are getting cheated out of almost an hour of our tour time because the tour company was late picking us up and the fact that we are not required to be back on board until 5:30 for a 6pm sailing. Next comes a statement from a gentleman that as many of us as there are the ship will wait if we are late. At this point I had bitten my tongue as long as possible. I informed the gentleman he didn’t know what he was talking about since we were on a private tour and the ship is only held for ship sponsored tours. There was finally agreement from others and he admitted this was his first private tour and perhaps he might be wrong. But he and his wife continued to complain about getting back so early. All this before we ever got out of Malaga!!! Let’s get to the fun part people!!!
Today our adventure is to Granada for a tour of the Alhambra (red place), one of Moorish Spain’s most familiar monuments. Our guide is Patricia’ (Pah tree see ah) another redhead with wonderful knowledge to share with us. Our “ah ha” moment today is the meaning of having cypress trees planted at the entrance to your home. One represents drink, meaning that you are welcome to stop to refresh yourself. Two is for food and drink. Three is for food, drink, and lodging. However if there are none, don’t stop because you are not welcome. All rightey then...remind me to plant cypress next to my front porch, but, in pots, so depending on how my day is going I can add or remove part or all of the invitation.
The complex includes the Royal Palace of the Arabic Kings and the Granadan Alcazaba (fortress). Built by Ismael I and modified by Muhammad V the stronghold and grounds are remarkably preserved. The gardens alone require the services of 68 gardeners to keep them in top form. Tile work and inlaid and carved wood ceilings are the order of the day along with Moorish arches, grille work and of course balconies. Fountains, every conceivable plant and topiaries grown into walls and carved like arched courtyards are around every turn. Walkways and courtyards are paved with inlaid geometric designs made from white and black rock laid flat and on side to roll and undulate in and around stairs and ramps. It is more than I can describe here because my eyes and camera were never still for the entire three hours we toured. At the end of our time Patricia’ told us we had walked almost 5 miles and climbed between 300-400 steps. Whew!!! It rained lightly off and on throughout our tour but the beauty of this place makes the weather forgettable.
Debbie announces that we will go into Granada for a brief time since there were complaints about not getting time in the city. This starts another debate with the same couple who were being “cheated” before. Now they have decided they don’t want to walk in the rain and want to stay on the bus. Debbie says sorry, no can do, everyone’s gotta get off. We are smiling hugely at Debbie as we jaunt down the mountain into Grenada.
We need sustenance! Down the hill and into the city of Granada we go. We are
given a bit of free time to explore and find lunch. Susan, David, Tony and I choose a quaint little restaurant just as they let us off the bus at the intersection and tell us what time to be back. Meson’ Gregorio resembles a tiny French or Italian villa with plastered walls, tiled roof and wonderful smells emanating from inside . It was established here in 1955. Good choice we think. Downstairs is a bar, upstairs the dining room. We tell our waiter we would like to once again sample so we order three different meals and he brings us salad and plates for sharing. We order a bottle of red wine and end up ordering another. Our meal is wonderful. We have chosen ham croquettes, pork tenderloins, salad and a meat and cheese board. He also brings a plate of deep fried anchovies or sardines. We don’t know which but they were very tasty.
Time to head back to our bus and listen to complaints about the lack of choices on where to eat and not having enough time and no menus in English and the rain. We are laughing and joking as we board and make sure we described our meal and the two bottles of wine in minute detail, with wide smiles full of both sarcasm and much joviality. Ahhhhh, that second bottle of wine really made the difference in the atmosphere of our return trip.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Katakolon, Greece - (Olympia) Home of the Original Olympics
We met our tour partners Vivian and Bob Pai just before 8am and left the ship together to find our guide for the day. I had made arrangements with George at 'Taxi Katakolon' for him to find us a driver since he was already booked by someone else on our ship.
George is a very nice and personable man and he met us to introduce us to our driver Denos or Demos.
We headed out for the archaeological site at Olympia as soon as we got to the port entrance. This turned out to be one of the best decisions since we beat all the tour buses and had a good portion of the site to ourselves before the crowds hit.
The site is much larger than we expected and covered a few square miles. We tackled it in no specific order other than to avoid the few private and semi-private tour groups that had also decided to get an early start.
The site is among trees and is shaded in most places other than the competition field which reminded us greatly of Circus Maximus in Rome. This field is rectangular rather than oval but the rest of the area is very similar.
About the time we had finished with the site and decided to head for the museum several large groups were coming in so our timing had been almost perfect.
The museum is very modern and not as large or as extensive as we had expected. It’s contents were reminiscent of the small museum at Delos, containing statues, earthen jars, glass and of course partial statues that had decorated some of the buildings and temples. The site itself had been tumbled by a massive earthquake which accounts for the lack of intact pieces.
There was a moderately large collection of swords and knives made from gold, silver and bronze. Our grandson, Dominick, would have been intrigued by the shapes and sizes of some of the pieces.In total we spent a bit over two hours at the site and the total cost for entrance fees to both the site and the museum was E9 on a combination ticket. There is another museum dedicated to the history of the Olympic games that is free entry. Vivian and Bob went thru it and said it was quite interesting.
We stopped for about 30 minutes in the village of Olympia and I bought some olive oil and spices along with a few post cards to make into a collage.
We had intended to visit a local winery at George’s recommendation however he informed us that he had called them to say we were coming and they told him they had tour groups totaling 300 plus so he recommended we skip it which we did. Instead we had a scenic ride to an amphitheater and to a beach resort and took some nice pictures. We also rode thru the town of Pirus (sp) where George and Demos live.
Lunch was at a local Greek restaurant and we asked the owner to make us up a sampler of his dishes so we could try a variety of things. Bob and Vivian agreed they wanted that also. We had a very filling lunch of calamari soup, beef steak, chicken, meatballs, and salad. We are beginning to think that all lunches in Europe are E25 per couple. If we keep this up we will be hitting an ATM in short order.
By this time we were all tired and asked Demos to return us to the ship a bit
early. The total for a full day car and driver was E120 per couple. We felt we got our money’s worth without all the tourist traps.
George is a very nice and personable man and he met us to introduce us to our driver Denos or Demos.
We headed out for the archaeological site at Olympia as soon as we got to the port entrance. This turned out to be one of the best decisions since we beat all the tour buses and had a good portion of the site to ourselves before the crowds hit.
The site is much larger than we expected and covered a few square miles. We tackled it in no specific order other than to avoid the few private and semi-private tour groups that had also decided to get an early start.
The site is among trees and is shaded in most places other than the competition field which reminded us greatly of Circus Maximus in Rome. This field is rectangular rather than oval but the rest of the area is very similar.
About the time we had finished with the site and decided to head for the museum several large groups were coming in so our timing had been almost perfect.
The museum is very modern and not as large or as extensive as we had expected. It’s contents were reminiscent of the small museum at Delos, containing statues, earthen jars, glass and of course partial statues that had decorated some of the buildings and temples. The site itself had been tumbled by a massive earthquake which accounts for the lack of intact pieces.
There was a moderately large collection of swords and knives made from gold, silver and bronze. Our grandson, Dominick, would have been intrigued by the shapes and sizes of some of the pieces.In total we spent a bit over two hours at the site and the total cost for entrance fees to both the site and the museum was E9 on a combination ticket. There is another museum dedicated to the history of the Olympic games that is free entry. Vivian and Bob went thru it and said it was quite interesting.
We stopped for about 30 minutes in the village of Olympia and I bought some olive oil and spices along with a few post cards to make into a collage.
We had intended to visit a local winery at George’s recommendation however he informed us that he had called them to say we were coming and they told him they had tour groups totaling 300 plus so he recommended we skip it which we did. Instead we had a scenic ride to an amphitheater and to a beach resort and took some nice pictures. We also rode thru the town of Pirus (sp) where George and Demos live.
Lunch was at a local Greek restaurant and we asked the owner to make us up a sampler of his dishes so we could try a variety of things. Bob and Vivian agreed they wanted that also. We had a very filling lunch of calamari soup, beef steak, chicken, meatballs, and salad. We are beginning to think that all lunches in Europe are E25 per couple. If we keep this up we will be hitting an ATM in short order.
By this time we were all tired and asked Demos to return us to the ship a bit
early. The total for a full day car and driver was E120 per couple. We felt we got our money’s worth without all the tourist traps.
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