Corfu is one of those places that seems like a small village instead of a bustling seaport. We decided to walk around and soak up the local color. Once again crumbling buildings with vine draped balconies, worn and warped shutters that are in varying stages of closed, open, gaping, barely cracked open and/or covered with beautiful handmade curtains to let in the light and air but keep prying eyes out.
The downtown area and walled old town are quite a distance from the port and taxis are very expensive even if you share. We heard tales of drivers changing the amount of the fare after discovering 4 people were riding instead of two. So rather than argue we walked around the neighborhoods near the port.
The atmosphere was relaxed and quiet. We visited tiny local markets with fresh fruits and veggies for sale plus a meat market filled with chickens, beef, veal and tenderloin, all ready to be cut and wrapped at the customers request. Of course, being near the port there was an abundance of pizzerias, coffee shops and restaurants all boasting what they think the average tourist will want. We on this windy but sunny day, however, were more impressed with the little open air places a few blocks inland. Here, it seemed all the local old men were gathered round tables with their dogs at their feet discussing whatever old men with dogs who live on Corfu discuss every morning at their local coffee house. We figured they were probably speculating on how strange we were to be walking around taking pictures of abandoned factories and broken tiles and shutters. But what they don’t know is I have a motive for wanting pictures of all this stuff. I just haven’t quite figured out exactly what yet. But give me time and I will have an epiphany I am sure.
After a few hours my legs were starting to get tired so we reversed our course and headed in the general direction of the sea. It didn’t take us long to get back where we had started from.
We were surprised that there were no vendors hawking their wares outside the port entrance so we ended up shopping in a very reasonably priced duty free shop just before boarding the ship. Here we bought kumquat jelly, olive oil, soap, several other gifts and the worst bottle of red wine I think I have ever tasted. In the past we have had very good luck purchasing inexpensive local wine, but this was an exception. I can’t even give the excuse that it was only E5 since we have had E5 wine that was quite palatable. So, lesson learned? Don’t buy E5 wine in Corfu at the duty free store.
We love to travel. People tell me I should be a travel agent because of all the things we do,the places we go, and the money we save. Our grandaughter,Sophia,tells everyone that we are on a "field trip" while we are gone, thus the name. I hope you find helpful, interesting information about different locales, ideas on how to get the most for your money, and be entertained in the process. Welcome. Connie
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Malaga, Spain
Malaga was already established when Phoenicians reached Spain. Historians say they came from Tyre and Sidon 50 years after Troy was destroyed in 1184 BC, however archaeological evidence reveals no permanent coastal settlement until almost half a millennium later.
The Moors invaded Andalusia in 711 AD. They stayed for over 700 years until Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed their land around 1492.
There are three buses today. We board our bus after a slight delay. Seems the port authority waited for our ship to clear before they would allow the private tours to enter. And our ship was late docking. Our driver is Jose’ and our bus guide is Debbie from England. From the beginning we knew this would be a different tour than we have had, since there was a total of 18 in our group and some were already complaining about getting a late start. Debbie explains that today is the beginning of a holiday weekend and with the possibility of heavy return traffic we will plan to leave Granada by 2:15 for arrival at the port by 4:30. Immediately we have protests that we are getting cheated out of almost an hour of our tour time because the tour company was late picking us up and the fact that we are not required to be back on board until 5:30 for a 6pm sailing. Next comes a statement from a gentleman that as many of us as there are the ship will wait if we are late. At this point I had bitten my tongue as long as possible. I informed the gentleman he didn’t know what he was talking about since we were on a private tour and the ship is only held for ship sponsored tours. There was finally agreement from others and he admitted this was his first private tour and perhaps he might be wrong. But he and his wife continued to complain about getting back so early. All this before we ever got out of Malaga!!! Let’s get to the fun part people!!!
Today our adventure is to Granada for a tour of the Alhambra (red place), one of Moorish Spain’s most familiar monuments. Our guide is Patricia’ (Pah tree see ah) another redhead with wonderful knowledge to share with us. Our “ah ha” moment today is the meaning of having cypress trees planted at the entrance to your home. One represents drink, meaning that you are welcome to stop to refresh yourself. Two is for food and drink. Three is for food, drink, and lodging. However if there are none, don’t stop because you are not welcome. All rightey then...remind me to plant cypress next to my front porch, but, in pots, so depending on how my day is going I can add or remove part or all of the invitation.
The complex includes the Royal Palace of the Arabic Kings and the Granadan Alcazaba (fortress). Built by Ismael I and modified by Muhammad V the stronghold and grounds are remarkably preserved. The gardens alone require the services of 68 gardeners to keep them in top form. Tile work and inlaid and carved wood ceilings are the order of the day along with Moorish arches, grille work and of course balconies. Fountains, every conceivable plant and topiaries grown into walls and carved like arched courtyards are around every turn. Walkways and courtyards are paved with inlaid geometric designs made from white and black rock laid flat and on side to roll and undulate in and around stairs and ramps. It is more than I can describe here because my eyes and camera were never still for the entire three hours we toured. At the end of our time Patricia’ told us we had walked almost 5 miles and climbed between 300-400 steps. Whew!!! It rained lightly off and on throughout our tour but the beauty of this place makes the weather forgettable.
Debbie announces that we will go into Granada for a brief time since there were complaints about not getting time in the city. This starts another debate with the same couple who were being “cheated” before. Now they have decided they don’t want to walk in the rain and want to stay on the bus. Debbie says sorry, no can do, everyone’s gotta get off. We are smiling hugely at Debbie as we jaunt down the mountain into Grenada.
We need sustenance! Down the hill and into the city of Granada we go. We are
given a bit of free time to explore and find lunch. Susan, David, Tony and I choose a quaint little restaurant just as they let us off the bus at the intersection and tell us what time to be back. Meson’ Gregorio resembles a tiny French or Italian villa with plastered walls, tiled roof and wonderful smells emanating from inside . It was established here in 1955. Good choice we think. Downstairs is a bar, upstairs the dining room. We tell our waiter we would like to once again sample so we order three different meals and he brings us salad and plates for sharing. We order a bottle of red wine and end up ordering another. Our meal is wonderful. We have chosen ham croquettes, pork tenderloins, salad and a meat and cheese board. He also brings a plate of deep fried anchovies or sardines. We don’t know which but they were very tasty.
Time to head back to our bus and listen to complaints about the lack of choices on where to eat and not having enough time and no menus in English and the rain. We are laughing and joking as we board and make sure we described our meal and the two bottles of wine in minute detail, with wide smiles full of both sarcasm and much joviality. Ahhhhh, that second bottle of wine really made the difference in the atmosphere of our return trip.
The Moors invaded Andalusia in 711 AD. They stayed for over 700 years until Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed their land around 1492.
There are three buses today. We board our bus after a slight delay. Seems the port authority waited for our ship to clear before they would allow the private tours to enter. And our ship was late docking. Our driver is Jose’ and our bus guide is Debbie from England. From the beginning we knew this would be a different tour than we have had, since there was a total of 18 in our group and some were already complaining about getting a late start. Debbie explains that today is the beginning of a holiday weekend and with the possibility of heavy return traffic we will plan to leave Granada by 2:15 for arrival at the port by 4:30. Immediately we have protests that we are getting cheated out of almost an hour of our tour time because the tour company was late picking us up and the fact that we are not required to be back on board until 5:30 for a 6pm sailing. Next comes a statement from a gentleman that as many of us as there are the ship will wait if we are late. At this point I had bitten my tongue as long as possible. I informed the gentleman he didn’t know what he was talking about since we were on a private tour and the ship is only held for ship sponsored tours. There was finally agreement from others and he admitted this was his first private tour and perhaps he might be wrong. But he and his wife continued to complain about getting back so early. All this before we ever got out of Malaga!!! Let’s get to the fun part people!!!
Today our adventure is to Granada for a tour of the Alhambra (red place), one of Moorish Spain’s most familiar monuments. Our guide is Patricia’ (Pah tree see ah) another redhead with wonderful knowledge to share with us. Our “ah ha” moment today is the meaning of having cypress trees planted at the entrance to your home. One represents drink, meaning that you are welcome to stop to refresh yourself. Two is for food and drink. Three is for food, drink, and lodging. However if there are none, don’t stop because you are not welcome. All rightey then...remind me to plant cypress next to my front porch, but, in pots, so depending on how my day is going I can add or remove part or all of the invitation.
The complex includes the Royal Palace of the Arabic Kings and the Granadan Alcazaba (fortress). Built by Ismael I and modified by Muhammad V the stronghold and grounds are remarkably preserved. The gardens alone require the services of 68 gardeners to keep them in top form. Tile work and inlaid and carved wood ceilings are the order of the day along with Moorish arches, grille work and of course balconies. Fountains, every conceivable plant and topiaries grown into walls and carved like arched courtyards are around every turn. Walkways and courtyards are paved with inlaid geometric designs made from white and black rock laid flat and on side to roll and undulate in and around stairs and ramps. It is more than I can describe here because my eyes and camera were never still for the entire three hours we toured. At the end of our time Patricia’ told us we had walked almost 5 miles and climbed between 300-400 steps. Whew!!! It rained lightly off and on throughout our tour but the beauty of this place makes the weather forgettable.
Debbie announces that we will go into Granada for a brief time since there were complaints about not getting time in the city. This starts another debate with the same couple who were being “cheated” before. Now they have decided they don’t want to walk in the rain and want to stay on the bus. Debbie says sorry, no can do, everyone’s gotta get off. We are smiling hugely at Debbie as we jaunt down the mountain into Grenada.
We need sustenance! Down the hill and into the city of Granada we go. We are
given a bit of free time to explore and find lunch. Susan, David, Tony and I choose a quaint little restaurant just as they let us off the bus at the intersection and tell us what time to be back. Meson’ Gregorio resembles a tiny French or Italian villa with plastered walls, tiled roof and wonderful smells emanating from inside . It was established here in 1955. Good choice we think. Downstairs is a bar, upstairs the dining room. We tell our waiter we would like to once again sample so we order three different meals and he brings us salad and plates for sharing. We order a bottle of red wine and end up ordering another. Our meal is wonderful. We have chosen ham croquettes, pork tenderloins, salad and a meat and cheese board. He also brings a plate of deep fried anchovies or sardines. We don’t know which but they were very tasty.
Time to head back to our bus and listen to complaints about the lack of choices on where to eat and not having enough time and no menus in English and the rain. We are laughing and joking as we board and make sure we described our meal and the two bottles of wine in minute detail, with wide smiles full of both sarcasm and much joviality. Ahhhhh, that second bottle of wine really made the difference in the atmosphere of our return trip.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Katakolon, Greece - (Olympia) Home of the Original Olympics
We met our tour partners Vivian and Bob Pai just before 8am and left the ship together to find our guide for the day. I had made arrangements with George at 'Taxi Katakolon' for him to find us a driver since he was already booked by someone else on our ship.
George is a very nice and personable man and he met us to introduce us to our driver Denos or Demos.
We headed out for the archaeological site at Olympia as soon as we got to the port entrance. This turned out to be one of the best decisions since we beat all the tour buses and had a good portion of the site to ourselves before the crowds hit.
The site is much larger than we expected and covered a few square miles. We tackled it in no specific order other than to avoid the few private and semi-private tour groups that had also decided to get an early start.
The site is among trees and is shaded in most places other than the competition field which reminded us greatly of Circus Maximus in Rome. This field is rectangular rather than oval but the rest of the area is very similar.
About the time we had finished with the site and decided to head for the museum several large groups were coming in so our timing had been almost perfect.
The museum is very modern and not as large or as extensive as we had expected. It’s contents were reminiscent of the small museum at Delos, containing statues, earthen jars, glass and of course partial statues that had decorated some of the buildings and temples. The site itself had been tumbled by a massive earthquake which accounts for the lack of intact pieces.
There was a moderately large collection of swords and knives made from gold, silver and bronze. Our grandson, Dominick, would have been intrigued by the shapes and sizes of some of the pieces.In total we spent a bit over two hours at the site and the total cost for entrance fees to both the site and the museum was E9 on a combination ticket. There is another museum dedicated to the history of the Olympic games that is free entry. Vivian and Bob went thru it and said it was quite interesting.
We stopped for about 30 minutes in the village of Olympia and I bought some olive oil and spices along with a few post cards to make into a collage.
We had intended to visit a local winery at George’s recommendation however he informed us that he had called them to say we were coming and they told him they had tour groups totaling 300 plus so he recommended we skip it which we did. Instead we had a scenic ride to an amphitheater and to a beach resort and took some nice pictures. We also rode thru the town of Pirus (sp) where George and Demos live.
Lunch was at a local Greek restaurant and we asked the owner to make us up a sampler of his dishes so we could try a variety of things. Bob and Vivian agreed they wanted that also. We had a very filling lunch of calamari soup, beef steak, chicken, meatballs, and salad. We are beginning to think that all lunches in Europe are E25 per couple. If we keep this up we will be hitting an ATM in short order.
By this time we were all tired and asked Demos to return us to the ship a bit
early. The total for a full day car and driver was E120 per couple. We felt we got our money’s worth without all the tourist traps.
George is a very nice and personable man and he met us to introduce us to our driver Denos or Demos.
We headed out for the archaeological site at Olympia as soon as we got to the port entrance. This turned out to be one of the best decisions since we beat all the tour buses and had a good portion of the site to ourselves before the crowds hit.
The site is much larger than we expected and covered a few square miles. We tackled it in no specific order other than to avoid the few private and semi-private tour groups that had also decided to get an early start.
The site is among trees and is shaded in most places other than the competition field which reminded us greatly of Circus Maximus in Rome. This field is rectangular rather than oval but the rest of the area is very similar.
About the time we had finished with the site and decided to head for the museum several large groups were coming in so our timing had been almost perfect.
The museum is very modern and not as large or as extensive as we had expected. It’s contents were reminiscent of the small museum at Delos, containing statues, earthen jars, glass and of course partial statues that had decorated some of the buildings and temples. The site itself had been tumbled by a massive earthquake which accounts for the lack of intact pieces.
There was a moderately large collection of swords and knives made from gold, silver and bronze. Our grandson, Dominick, would have been intrigued by the shapes and sizes of some of the pieces.In total we spent a bit over two hours at the site and the total cost for entrance fees to both the site and the museum was E9 on a combination ticket. There is another museum dedicated to the history of the Olympic games that is free entry. Vivian and Bob went thru it and said it was quite interesting.
We stopped for about 30 minutes in the village of Olympia and I bought some olive oil and spices along with a few post cards to make into a collage.
We had intended to visit a local winery at George’s recommendation however he informed us that he had called them to say we were coming and they told him they had tour groups totaling 300 plus so he recommended we skip it which we did. Instead we had a scenic ride to an amphitheater and to a beach resort and took some nice pictures. We also rode thru the town of Pirus (sp) where George and Demos live.
Lunch was at a local Greek restaurant and we asked the owner to make us up a sampler of his dishes so we could try a variety of things. Bob and Vivian agreed they wanted that also. We had a very filling lunch of calamari soup, beef steak, chicken, meatballs, and salad. We are beginning to think that all lunches in Europe are E25 per couple. If we keep this up we will be hitting an ATM in short order.
By this time we were all tired and asked Demos to return us to the ship a bit
early. The total for a full day car and driver was E120 per couple. We felt we got our money’s worth without all the tourist traps.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Monte Carlo, Monaco
The sovereign Principality of Monaco lies in the hills above the Mediterranean Sea smack dab in the middle of the French Riviera. Home of the Grand Prix, Princess Grace and the legend of James Bond’s Casino Royale this tiny piece of real estate can boast the priciest in the world. In order to enter the Monte Carlo Casino you pay a cover charge and if you wish to gamble in the evening a tux or evening gown is required. In fact all the large casinos maintain dress codes. Monaco is also the most densely populated country in the world touting 42,000 per sq mile. The entire Principality is only half the size of New York City’s Central Park.
We tender in this port and the walk from the tender dock out of the marina is long and filled with yachts of all shapes, sizes, colors, origination points and price ranges. All of them expensive. Here owners have their yachts lifted from the water on a regular basis for cleaning or moving. But then if you can afford to moor here a small matter of having your boat moved is a mere pittance.
We finally get past the Monte Carlo Yacht Club and try our hand at finding our way around. It doesn’t take us long to discover we are in the shopping part of town with names like Hermes’, Prada, Ferragamo, and others, vying for our attention. I am looking for a 'treasure' not a scarf that will cost me a full year of my poor little pension. Sooo… always the mindful wife who saves my wonderful husband oodles and gobs of money I duck down a couple of little side streets and find a wonderful boutique featuring all manner of home décor. In fact so much of it, I have to keep repeating my look round, as I see different treasures with each new sweep. Bonjour!!! This is my kind of store!! It follows one of my mottos - “More is always a good thing and the more there is the better time you have finding a treasure”. It doesn’t take long to find what will make very nice mementos. The proprietress is very French “tres chic” with obviously dyed Strawberry Shortcake red hair, and tiny hot purple framed designer half glasses perched on the tip of her nose allowing her to read price tags and still converse with her clientele over the top. She switches from French to English with utmost ease. I am sure this is a courtesy since I am her only non French speaking customer. She gift wraps each of my purchases with flair, in happy red paper and a wisp of white ribbon with a bon vivant little sticker advertising the name and address of the shop. Now, won’t I feel “tres chic” when the recipients of these little treasures see Monte Carlo, Monaco on the tag?
Time to head back since this is a very short port day. Adieu, Monaco.
We tender in this port and the walk from the tender dock out of the marina is long and filled with yachts of all shapes, sizes, colors, origination points and price ranges. All of them expensive. Here owners have their yachts lifted from the water on a regular basis for cleaning or moving. But then if you can afford to moor here a small matter of having your boat moved is a mere pittance.
We finally get past the Monte Carlo Yacht Club and try our hand at finding our way around. It doesn’t take us long to discover we are in the shopping part of town with names like Hermes’, Prada, Ferragamo, and others, vying for our attention. I am looking for a 'treasure' not a scarf that will cost me a full year of my poor little pension. Sooo… always the mindful wife who saves my wonderful husband oodles and gobs of money I duck down a couple of little side streets and find a wonderful boutique featuring all manner of home décor. In fact so much of it, I have to keep repeating my look round, as I see different treasures with each new sweep. Bonjour!!! This is my kind of store!! It follows one of my mottos - “More is always a good thing and the more there is the better time you have finding a treasure”. It doesn’t take long to find what will make very nice mementos. The proprietress is very French “tres chic” with obviously dyed Strawberry Shortcake red hair, and tiny hot purple framed designer half glasses perched on the tip of her nose allowing her to read price tags and still converse with her clientele over the top. She switches from French to English with utmost ease. I am sure this is a courtesy since I am her only non French speaking customer. She gift wraps each of my purchases with flair, in happy red paper and a wisp of white ribbon with a bon vivant little sticker advertising the name and address of the shop. Now, won’t I feel “tres chic” when the recipients of these little treasures see Monte Carlo, Monaco on the tag?
Time to head back since this is a very short port day. Adieu, Monaco.
Friday, March 4, 2011
Pisa and Florence, Italy
The day started with a rain shower and cold cutting wind. We are apprehensive to say the least. We disembark and find our guide Elizabetta awaiting us. She is a perky redhead with uncontrolled curls, soft brown eyes, elfin chin, Georgia peach complexion, a ready smile, and terrific sense of humor. She is from Pisa and loves her job. She lives about 10 minutes from the leaning tower and I told her that next time we came we wanted to stay with her. She took my jest in stride and said why not! She speaks English with that same lilting accent I adore to hear and starts right in with information about our port, Livorno.
Developed in the 16th Century it flourished thanks to the Medici family. In 1590 Ferdinand I, Grand Duke of Tuscany, made it a free port and opened it to all religious and political refugees. In this city you will find small churches with several different altars and confessionals representing the different orders who shared the building so as to be able to support their preferred priest and/or sect. The city was badly damaged during WWII.
Our first stop, Elizabetta’s hometown of Pisa, is very close to Livorno so we are there in a matter of about a half hour. On the way she gives us commentary and history.
Our first view of The Leaning Tower is from the highway. The sun is shining by this time and we are looking forward to a beautiful day for this adventure. The pictures I have seen of Pisa do not do justice to the actual site. First the entire base of the tower is recessed down about 10 or more feet. It is constructed of white marble and is very stark, smooth, clean and beautiful. The cornices, arches, columns and carvings stand out in deep relief. My expectations were surpassed indeed.
The cathedral and baptismal are massive and also impressive but the definitive highlight here is the tower.
Onward now to Firenze, Fiesole, Florentia all have been the name for Florence. There was no Florence in the Etruscan world. Their hilltop city of Fiesole, the most powerful in their realm, served as the kingdom’s capital. After the Roman community of Florentia was established just eight miles away in 59 AD, Fiesole thrived. Florentia expanded as river traffic increased and roads were built linking it to the Roman capital. It was a “normal” Italian city until local merchants banded together behind local political figure Cosimo de’ Medici (MEH dee chee). The Medici family continued to lead and control Florence until the last male heir died in 1737. This family did not come from royalty they married it. Their fortune was made in the trade and production of the finest of wool. The family’s legacy is a surfeit of art and elegant architecture.
We have about an hour drive to reach the outskirts and then perhaps another half hour to reach our first stop overlooking the city to take wonderful pictures of Brunelleschi’s Duomo, Ponte Vecchia, Santa Croce, and the Jewish synagogue at the center of the city.
Elizabeth brought us here first so we could get pictures with the sun at our back for the best effect. Smart girl our Elizabetta.
Upon leaving I ask to see the home of Galileo, which is quite near, up an extremely steep narrow street that a regular tour bus could never come close to. I hop out, while she turns around, and take several pictures of his door and balcony. Imagine! I am standing at the front door of one of the most famous men in history. Is it here that he developed some of his theories about the moon, stars, sun, planets, and the galaxy? Not far away is an ancient observatory he used and it is still in use today. This stop helps me complete the journey started in Rome last year at a little known basilica in Piazza della Repubblica. Galileo was instrumental in designing its floor and apse that contain a meridian line and an astrological clock that has stayed within mere seconds of Greenwich time over a period of several centuries. Perhaps being a bit silly I touch the door and wonder who else might have passed this way over the centuries, Michelangelo, Da Vinci? My pictures complete and Elizabetta holding up traffic for me, I hop back on and away we go bumping over the cobbled street back down the hill.
Back down the hill we go, crossing the Arno River to the central historic area of Florence. Here we get an up close view of the subjects of our hillside photos.
The Florence Bishopric was reassigned from San Lorenzo to the 16th century Santa Reparata Church during the 17th century. The older structure was enlarged and modified until Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio began his Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flowers) on the same site in 1296. It took 173 years to complete. Dominating a double square (Piazza del Duomo and Piazza San Giovanni), it is the 4th longest cathedral in the world and has capacity for 20,000 people. Lorenzo Ghiberti began the stunning bronze doors of the Baptistery of San Giovanni in 1403.
Before we go to our museum stop we spend a few hours wandering thru the Ponte Vecchia (old bridge) area with it’s expensive jewelry shops crowded and stacked one on top of another across the Arno. This most famous bridge by the way was the only one in Florence that was spared during the devastation of Florence in 1944.
We seek sustenance since it is past our usual lunch time. Down a side street, around a corner and down an alley we find a doorway marked Bar Lambertesca. Inside are locals eating, no one speaks more than a few words of English and we know this is the place for lunch! Through a combination of our limited Italian, lots of smiles sign language, and their few words of English we order a pizza, sandwich and bottle of house red for a total of E8.50. We think the lady charged us for glasses of wine instead of the small bottle we consumed but no she assures us. I wrap the empty bottle in the paper placemat from the table to take home and use for holding vinegar as I did with one from our restaurant in Rome last year. We take our time eating our little feast and watching Florence pass by. Time to reconnect with our Elizabetta and the rest of our group.
Florence has more than 30 major museums. We will have time to visit only one, Galleria dell’ Accademia, to see David. This is Florence’s most famous work and they continue the age old feud with Rome to keep them from taking him.
He is magnificent! Muscle, sinew, blood veins that actually depict the purples of flow. Nail beds, knuckles, you can imagine the whorls of fingerprints and the underlying bone of cheeks and skull. Only the eyes are not lifelike but then you remember you are looking at one single block of Carrara marble. In the same room are the four unfinished Slaves the artist meant to adorn Pope Julius II’s tomb at St. Peter’s Basilica. There are also paintings by masters, however they are rendered almost unimportant and invisible in the shadow of David. He dominates the entire long rectangular room. Michelangelo began his human sculptures at the abdomen and never made smaller patterns beforehand. It is said he could look at a block of marble and see the finished carving. This statue originally stood in the Piazza della Signoria but was moved to the Accademia in 1873 to protect it. There is a replica in the Piazza and many don’t realize they are looking at a copy there.
We are running short on time and we have a 90 minute drive back to Livorno so we scramble back to Elizabetta to complete our tour driving past Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Uffizi, Santa Maria Novella Church and Opera del Duomo. These wonderful landmarks have to wait for our next visit.
We say tearful goodbyes at our ship. Our Elizabetta hugs me tight and is very humble in acceptance of our praise for her wonderful tour. We inquire if we can specifically request her again next year and she says with humility that she has no other repertoires. I tell her we will love a repeat and she blushes
prettily with a promise to find at least one new thing to show us. Arriviederci Italia…Goodbye.
Developed in the 16th Century it flourished thanks to the Medici family. In 1590 Ferdinand I, Grand Duke of Tuscany, made it a free port and opened it to all religious and political refugees. In this city you will find small churches with several different altars and confessionals representing the different orders who shared the building so as to be able to support their preferred priest and/or sect. The city was badly damaged during WWII.
Our first stop, Elizabetta’s hometown of Pisa, is very close to Livorno so we are there in a matter of about a half hour. On the way she gives us commentary and history.
Our first view of The Leaning Tower is from the highway. The sun is shining by this time and we are looking forward to a beautiful day for this adventure. The pictures I have seen of Pisa do not do justice to the actual site. First the entire base of the tower is recessed down about 10 or more feet. It is constructed of white marble and is very stark, smooth, clean and beautiful. The cornices, arches, columns and carvings stand out in deep relief. My expectations were surpassed indeed.
The cathedral and baptismal are massive and also impressive but the definitive highlight here is the tower.
Onward now to Firenze, Fiesole, Florentia all have been the name for Florence. There was no Florence in the Etruscan world. Their hilltop city of Fiesole, the most powerful in their realm, served as the kingdom’s capital. After the Roman community of Florentia was established just eight miles away in 59 AD, Fiesole thrived. Florentia expanded as river traffic increased and roads were built linking it to the Roman capital. It was a “normal” Italian city until local merchants banded together behind local political figure Cosimo de’ Medici (MEH dee chee). The Medici family continued to lead and control Florence until the last male heir died in 1737. This family did not come from royalty they married it. Their fortune was made in the trade and production of the finest of wool. The family’s legacy is a surfeit of art and elegant architecture.
We have about an hour drive to reach the outskirts and then perhaps another half hour to reach our first stop overlooking the city to take wonderful pictures of Brunelleschi’s Duomo, Ponte Vecchia, Santa Croce, and the Jewish synagogue at the center of the city.
Elizabeth brought us here first so we could get pictures with the sun at our back for the best effect. Smart girl our Elizabetta.
Upon leaving I ask to see the home of Galileo, which is quite near, up an extremely steep narrow street that a regular tour bus could never come close to. I hop out, while she turns around, and take several pictures of his door and balcony. Imagine! I am standing at the front door of one of the most famous men in history. Is it here that he developed some of his theories about the moon, stars, sun, planets, and the galaxy? Not far away is an ancient observatory he used and it is still in use today. This stop helps me complete the journey started in Rome last year at a little known basilica in Piazza della Repubblica. Galileo was instrumental in designing its floor and apse that contain a meridian line and an astrological clock that has stayed within mere seconds of Greenwich time over a period of several centuries. Perhaps being a bit silly I touch the door and wonder who else might have passed this way over the centuries, Michelangelo, Da Vinci? My pictures complete and Elizabetta holding up traffic for me, I hop back on and away we go bumping over the cobbled street back down the hill.
Back down the hill we go, crossing the Arno River to the central historic area of Florence. Here we get an up close view of the subjects of our hillside photos.
The Florence Bishopric was reassigned from San Lorenzo to the 16th century Santa Reparata Church during the 17th century. The older structure was enlarged and modified until Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio began his Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flowers) on the same site in 1296. It took 173 years to complete. Dominating a double square (Piazza del Duomo and Piazza San Giovanni), it is the 4th longest cathedral in the world and has capacity for 20,000 people. Lorenzo Ghiberti began the stunning bronze doors of the Baptistery of San Giovanni in 1403.
Before we go to our museum stop we spend a few hours wandering thru the Ponte Vecchia (old bridge) area with it’s expensive jewelry shops crowded and stacked one on top of another across the Arno. This most famous bridge by the way was the only one in Florence that was spared during the devastation of Florence in 1944.
We seek sustenance since it is past our usual lunch time. Down a side street, around a corner and down an alley we find a doorway marked Bar Lambertesca. Inside are locals eating, no one speaks more than a few words of English and we know this is the place for lunch! Through a combination of our limited Italian, lots of smiles sign language, and their few words of English we order a pizza, sandwich and bottle of house red for a total of E8.50. We think the lady charged us for glasses of wine instead of the small bottle we consumed but no she assures us. I wrap the empty bottle in the paper placemat from the table to take home and use for holding vinegar as I did with one from our restaurant in Rome last year. We take our time eating our little feast and watching Florence pass by. Time to reconnect with our Elizabetta and the rest of our group.
Florence has more than 30 major museums. We will have time to visit only one, Galleria dell’ Accademia, to see David. This is Florence’s most famous work and they continue the age old feud with Rome to keep them from taking him.
He is magnificent! Muscle, sinew, blood veins that actually depict the purples of flow. Nail beds, knuckles, you can imagine the whorls of fingerprints and the underlying bone of cheeks and skull. Only the eyes are not lifelike but then you remember you are looking at one single block of Carrara marble. In the same room are the four unfinished Slaves the artist meant to adorn Pope Julius II’s tomb at St. Peter’s Basilica. There are also paintings by masters, however they are rendered almost unimportant and invisible in the shadow of David. He dominates the entire long rectangular room. Michelangelo began his human sculptures at the abdomen and never made smaller patterns beforehand. It is said he could look at a block of marble and see the finished carving. This statue originally stood in the Piazza della Signoria but was moved to the Accademia in 1873 to protect it. There is a replica in the Piazza and many don’t realize they are looking at a copy there.
We are running short on time and we have a 90 minute drive back to Livorno so we scramble back to Elizabetta to complete our tour driving past Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Uffizi, Santa Maria Novella Church and Opera del Duomo. These wonderful landmarks have to wait for our next visit.
We say tearful goodbyes at our ship. Our Elizabetta hugs me tight and is very humble in acceptance of our praise for her wonderful tour. We inquire if we can specifically request her again next year and she says with humility that she has no other repertoires. I tell her we will love a repeat and she blushes
prettily with a promise to find at least one new thing to show us. Arriviederci Italia…Goodbye.
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