Saturday, March 19, 2011

Malaga, Spain

Malaga was already established when Phoenicians reached Spain. Historians say they came from Tyre and Sidon 50 years after Troy was destroyed in 1184 BC, however archaeological evidence reveals no permanent coastal settlement until almost half a millennium later.
The Moors invaded Andalusia in 711 AD. They stayed for over 700 years until Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed their land around 1492.
There are three buses today. We board our bus after a slight delay. Seems the port authority waited for our ship to clear before they would allow the private tours to enter. And our ship was late docking. Our driver is Jose’ and our bus guide is Debbie from England. From the beginning we knew this would be a different tour than we have had, since there was a total of 18 in our group and some were already complaining about getting a late start. Debbie explains that today is the beginning of a holiday weekend and with the possibility of heavy return traffic we will plan to leave Granada by 2:15 for arrival at the port by 4:30. Immediately we have protests that we are getting cheated out of almost an hour of our tour time because the tour company was late picking us up and the fact that we are not required to be back on board until 5:30 for a 6pm sailing. Next comes a statement from a gentleman that as many of us as there are the ship will wait if we are late. At this point I had bitten my tongue as long as possible. I informed the gentleman he didn’t know what he was talking about since we were on a private tour and the ship is only held for ship sponsored tours. There was finally agreement from others and he admitted this was his first private tour and perhaps he might be wrong. But he and his wife continued to complain about getting back so early. All this before we ever got out of Malaga!!! Let’s get to the fun part people!!!
Today our adventure is to Granada for a tour of the Alhambra (red place), one of Moorish Spain’s most familiar monuments. Our guide is Patricia’ (Pah tree see ah) another redhead with wonderful knowledge to share with us. Our “ah ha” moment today is the meaning of having cypress trees planted at the entrance to your home. One represents drink, meaning that you are welcome to stop to refresh yourself. Two is for food and drink. Three is for food, drink, and lodging. However if there are none, don’t stop because you are not welcome. All rightey then...remind me to plant cypress next to my front porch, but, in pots, so depending on how my day is going I can add or remove part or all of the invitation.
The complex includes the Royal Palace of the Arabic Kings and the Granadan Alcazaba (fortress). Built by Ismael I and modified by Muhammad V the stronghold and grounds are remarkably preserved. The gardens alone require the services of 68 gardeners to keep them in top form. Tile work and inlaid and carved wood ceilings are the order of the day along with Moorish arches, grille work and of course balconies. Fountains, every conceivable plant and topiaries grown into walls and carved like arched courtyards are around every turn. Walkways and courtyards are paved with inlaid geometric designs made from white and black rock laid flat and on side to roll and undulate in and around stairs and ramps. It is more than I can describe here because my eyes and camera were never still for the entire three hours we toured. At the end of our time Patricia’ told us we had walked almost 5 miles and climbed between 300-400 steps. Whew!!!  It rained lightly off and on throughout our tour but the beauty of this place makes the weather forgettable.
Debbie announces that we will go into Granada for a brief time since there were complaints about not getting time in the city. This starts another debate with the same couple who were being “cheated” before. Now they have decided they don’t want to walk in the rain and want to stay on the bus. Debbie says sorry, no can do, everyone’s gotta get off. We are smiling hugely at Debbie as we jaunt down the mountain into Grenada.
We need sustenance! Down the hill and into the city of Granada we go. We are
given a bit of free time to explore and find lunch. Susan, David, Tony and I choose a quaint little restaurant just as they let us off the bus at the intersection and tell us what time to be back. Meson’ Gregorio resembles a tiny French or Italian villa with plastered walls, tiled roof and wonderful smells emanating from inside . It was established here in 1955. Good choice we think. Downstairs is a bar, upstairs the dining room. We tell our waiter we would like to once again sample so we order three different meals and he brings us salad and plates for sharing. We order a bottle of red wine and end up ordering another. Our meal is wonderful. We have chosen ham croquettes, pork tenderloins, salad and a meat and cheese board. He also brings a plate of deep fried anchovies or sardines. We don’t know which but they were very tasty.
Time to head back to our bus and listen to complaints about the lack of choices on where to eat and not having enough time and no menus in English and the rain. We are laughing and joking as we board and make sure we described our meal and the two bottles of wine in minute detail, with wide smiles full of both sarcasm and much joviality. Ahhhhh, that second bottle of wine really made the difference in the atmosphere of our return trip.