Civitavecchia, Italy

The ship provided shuttle took us through the port to Fort Michelangelo. We spent the day exploring this bustling city.
Civitavecchia means “Ancient Town”.  Evidence shows that people lived here before history was ever recorded. This port city was built by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2^nd Century and became one of the most important cities of ancient Rome. The Middle Ages brought a final period of general lawlessness to the Mediterranean region. The port was sacked and burned several times in the 15^th century.
Once again we had rain showers and a brisk breeze, so our first order of business was to replace the umbrella we broke in Venice. We found a tiny souvenir shop that was advertised on every street corner from the time we got off the shuttle. Frank’s Place carried a limited number of Italy souvenirs, 6-8 different local wines, a few books and one umbrella that Frank discounted for me since we bought a bottle of wine and a Book with DVD of Rome. His prices were less than most of the other souvenir kiosks we find on our travels and Frank’s English was that wonderful lilting sing song of Italy. Frank thanked us sincerely and extracted a promise that we would stop in next year when we came back through. The wine by the way was excellent.

 From there we walked up several blocks and cut back in toward the center of town. Here we found a large open air market containing some of the most beautiful fruits, vegetables and flowers we have seen to date. Persimmons as big as Tony’s fist in the brightest hot-yellow-orange, small aubergere eggplants the perfect size for stuffing or breading and frying in olive oil, dazzling gerbera daisies in myriads of colors mixed with sunflowers, button and spiked chrysanthemums, leather fern, carnations, roses, banana leaves, and more, in bunches small and large. I was so tempted to purchase a mixed bunch for our cabin onboard, but I could see Tony looking at me like I was crazy so I resisted the temptation. We continued out the other end of the huge tent into a square we hadn’t known was there. Here was even more of what we had just seen in the open with individual market umbrellas over the stalls. Next to this was a semi enclosed tent building that held permanent shops for meats, cheeses, butter, olives, sun dried tomatoes, plastic tubes of tomato paste, dried red chile peppers woven onto ropes, and a plethora of other food stuffs. Alas, we are not allowed to bring any spices back into the country that are not sealed in airtight packages. But the smell is wonderful!

The outside corners contained small shops selling sweaters, scarves, blouses, and other manner of clothing. Most of it in sizes that might accommodate my arm or leg with the help of numerous safety pins and an abundance of stretching. A few steps past this market and across a narrow cobbled street is an equally huge flea market with everything from duct tape to underwear. Here I purchase several pashminas for just a few Euro each. I bought some last year in Rome and everyone loved them. Such pretty and inexpensive souvenirs that pack wonderfully!
We venture back downhill toward our beginning point. We follow our noses, once more, to a small leather shop on the corner before the main street. Here I purchase a wonderful classic leather tote/purse for E35 that is soft and pliable and will probably outlast me and get passed on to Sophia. I purchase a second one for Lee Anne as a birthday present.
We make a stop for a cup of coffee and free WiFi before heading back to the ship. And of course our server is down at home. So much for saving a few bucks from our onboard plan. On our way we spot a phone center and decide to call Annie instead of the usual email. For E.60 cent connect fee and E.10 cents per minute we can call and talk for a few minutes. It is 3 am at home but she is glad to hear from us and we assure ourselves that “all is well on the Western Front” for a grand total of E1.
Back onboard we get comfy and warm with another cup of coffee and our books on the Lido while we watch the new passengers board and start learning their way around their new home for the next 18 days.

Kotor, Montenegro

It is a short sail from Dubrovnik to this picturesque town farther down the coast in the tiny country of Montenegro. We have decided to dub this “field trip” Land of the Walled Cities. So far we have had walled towns at each of out ports of call with more to come. Each has been amazing.
All of these countries were feudal in the middle ages and therefore their fortifications were extensive. In addition this part of the world was forever on the move to expand and explore with one kingdom, fiefdom, or tribe trying to conquer and subdue their neighbor even if that neighbor was a continent or two away.
Kotor was no exception to any of these, so, the fortifications made sense if they were to preserve any independence. As we look from our balcony we see 1350 steps leading zigzag up an almost sheer rock mountain to a fort overlooking the bay. This bay is twenty two miles deep and the city of Kotor lays at the very end.
Once again we see lovely homes, walls, streets, roads and docks made of rock. Today we have chosen to stay onboard as it is pouring rain again and we must tender into this port. If the rain stops for a period later we might decide to venture ashore. Then again the view is quite lovely and the ship is oh so quiet and calm with most of the passengers shoving, pushing and all around jockeying for position in line and on land to “get their monies worth”. Some days we just defy the crowds and choose not to participate and we have all the deck chairs, hot tubs, pools, and saunas to ourselves. We win, neener neener !!
No one knows exactly when Kotor was founded. The name is Greek meaning “wells” but there were residents here long before Greek settlers arrived. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities and was designed with dual purposes : aesthetic beauty and an attempt to thwart invaders. Its main fortification was a wall,  3 miles long, 60 foot high, and 45 feet thick! Needless to say it still exists.

Dubrovnik, Croasia

From the time we sailed out of Venice through the Grand Canal until we docked in Dubrovnik it rained. Then almost like one of the Gods smiling the clouds and wind and rain retreated and our day in this lovely place was perfect.
This medieval town boasts a walled city that has survived just about anything one can imagine. Richard the Lion Heart was here during the Crusades along with conquerors from almost ever other era of history and yet Dubrovnik not only survives but flourishes within its natural beauty. Beauty that is polished and clean and unassuming. We couldn’t get over the fact that unlike other ancient sites we have visited, this one is CLEAN!!! No litter anywhere. It was a bit eerie at first because it seemed almost too perfect.
Picture if you will the landscape of, The Sound of Music, and Heidi minus the snow. A walled city that defies the reality of the Serb war in the early 90’s. All the streets are cobbled stone. From one corner to the next are open air cafés, tiny stores tucked into niches in the walls, local vendors set up along outer walls, churches with quiet, cool, dark interiors that give shelter from the noise of the tourists who flock here. The main attraction in the walled city is to climb the many steps to the top of the wall and then walk the wall that encircles the town. We were with our dinner mates Trevor and Frieda thankfully, so we didn’t walk the wall but we did walk completely around the entire city and that was enough. My short little legs were very tired since I usually end up taking 3 steps to everyone else’s one in order to keep up. Ah such are the challenges of a short fluffy person.
We found a local craft and farmers market taking place in one of the courtyards in the center of town. As we came around the corner the smell of lavender engulfed us. Evidently the harvest had recently taken place because there was everything imaginable containing lavender. Offerings included lavender infused olive oil, lavender sachets, lavender wands, lavendersoaps, even lavender liqueurs. The last of these were a little off putting to me but others were buying them. Dubrovnik also offers embroidery and other handmade items such as crochet, and olive oil with different herbs and flowers to scent and season. I purchased a tiny bottle of cherry liqueur and a small pinwheel patterned doily that reminded me of one Grandma Recupero had made for me 40 years ago. That and a postcard were my only souvenirs of this little kingdom by the sea.
We were in this port until midnight and some of the other passengers were returning to town for a concert in the evening. Not us, our day was complete and it was time for the hot tub and a lounge chair to put ones feet up. And maybe a nap before dinner? Hmmm… why not.