This city’s history has much to do with invasions and conquest. Its history dates back to 988 when Barcelona won independence and identified more with being Catalonia than Spain. By the 1400’s Catalonia was linked with other regions of Spain and this lasted until the 1700’s. Today, the Catalan people still consider themselves independent and not part of Spain.
We meet our new partners in crime, David and Susan and the other couple on our Florence excursion, Dick and Helen on the pier. Our guide, Xavier (Ha vee air), a young man that is Catalonian and is very knowledgeable about Barcelona and probably their most famous resident Gaudi (Gow dee’). Our goal today is to see all the major sites, especially those of Gaudi. We start with a drive around the city with a little history. Then stops at several structures designed by Gaudi. He was such a prolific designer that there is actually a book of just the buildings he designed in and around Barcelona. Our first stop is at Parc Guell, originally intended to be a housing development designed by Gaudi for the very rich. It was to have a total of 60 homes and actually be a complete city within its’ walls. Whimsy is the order of the day as are all of Gaudi’s designs, with swirling undulating walls, tile work, and the telling of what seems to be fairy tales. Walt Disney could have received part of his inspiration for Disneyland from Gaudi, such is the fantasy quality of his designs and work. His most visible work of course is Catedral de la Sagrada Familia (Holy Family
Cathedral). He did not intend it to be a church, but typical of Gaudi, it became an obsession. Begun in 1882, is was far from finished when he died in 1926. The last 8 years if his life he worked almost exclusively on it. It is still incomplete and the estimate now is that it will be another 25 years before it is done. Gaudi was a man well ahead of his time-he even used recycled materials and his work today would be considered very modern. He never married and had no children. He is said to have told his mistress in his early years, when she said she wanted to get married that he “was too busy”. He said that decision haunted him in his later years as he died old and alone.
At the end of our tour Xavier drops us at Las Ramblas, the famous promenade, the infamous tourist trap of Barcelona. We venture forward and off side streets in search of real food. Our goal is a local eatery with few or no tourists, no English on the menu, good house wine and homey atmosphere. After rejecting a few we find our target, a tiny doorway leading past a bar to a widening area in the back. The owner speaks only a few words of English and we a few in Spanish. Using this and sign language we manage to order a variety of his house specialties that we have left to his discretion. The food continues to arrive and finally covers every available table surface. Deep fried anchovies, chicken, pork, beef, potatoes, salad, empanadas made with vegetables and meat. An entire table of “tapas” or “little plates”. Beer and red wine, coffee and a
bottle of cognac with instructions to drink all we wanted. Two hours later, our bellies and brains saturated we ask for the bill. Our host sits down at the end of the table and begins to figure on a piece of scrap paper with a short stub of a pencil that was whittled to a point, probably with a pocket knife. Evidently Tony looked like the man in charge or possibly more understanding of the offerta (offer) of E25 per person. The proprietor asked if we thought that a fair price for our feast. We all agreed and he said “are you sure?”. Our yes reply brought handshakes and many thanks as he insisted on pouring more cognac in each of the coffee cups. I asked to buy my cup as usual and he presented it to me with a flourish. After another round of handshakes, adios, and gracias we departed with full stomachs, light heads and memories of a special day indeed.
We love to travel. People tell me I should be a travel agent because of all the things we do,the places we go, and the money we save. Our grandaughter,Sophia,tells everyone that we are on a "field trip" while we are gone, thus the name. I hope you find helpful, interesting information about different locales, ideas on how to get the most for your money, and be entertained in the process. Welcome. Connie
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Cartagena, Spain
The history here is long and rich indeed. The city is on a site selected by Hasdrubal, brother-in-law to Hannibal of elephant fame. In 219BC Hannibal brought his armies (and elephants) to Iberia and captured Roman-allied Saguntum (Sagunto). It was the Second Punic War (Carthage vs. Rome) and even though Hannibal was initially victorious, the war ended with his decisive defeat at Zama near Carthage in 202BC.
We are off on our own to discover this beautiful town. At the dock we meet up with Trevor and Frieda, our dinner mates and decide to tag along with them for a bit.
I happen upon a 2E store. Reminds me of our $1 stores back home. 10E later I leave with a bag containing earrings to go with my Halloween costume, 2 bracelets made of polished stones and beads, a suede cowboy hat for Lee Anne to wear with her summer dresses and a nickel silver cuff bracelet that looks quite expensive. I receive comments on the cuff every time I wear it.
Cobbled streets, Roman ruins, even relics from the Phoenicians all contribute to the long and rich history here. We trek through winding wide avenues and small alleyways in search of nothing in particular. We are just enjoying the excellent sunshine and mild breeze blowing in from the harbor.
Trevor and Frieda take in a church and a mass. We decide to make our way to Plaza de San Francisco (San Francisco Square). On our way we happen upon what appears to be an archaeological dig in the middle of an old residential area. We can see through the fence what appears at first to be caves. Then on down, alleys and building walls well below what is now street level appear. It is not until later that we understand what we are seeing.
After leaving the square we happen on Trevor and Frieda again and get to hear about the beautiful cathedral they visited. We join them for a cup of coffee at a quaint sidewalk cafe where I obtain a coffee cup from a very friendly waiter who even brings me a bag to put it in. Afterward we continue on our leisurely stroll of Cartagena with no direct destination in mind.
We arrive at the Museo TeatRomano de Cartagena (Roman Theater Museum). This theater was built in the late 1st century BC and still retains its’ excellent acoustics. One can speak in a normal voice from anywhere inside and be heard with concise clarity. Small parts have been restored to what the original probably looked like to help the visitor imagine what a wonderful place it must have been. Now we realize that the excavation we saw earlier is actually part of this city during Roman times. This was the most well spent E4 (senior price - regular was only E5) we have ever spent and we were extremely happy we had decided to see it.
We start heading back to port and stop at a whardfside bistro for a cool drink since the day has turned out quite warm. There I offer to purchase another coffee cup but the manager is a young man who seems to think that all American tourists will pay anything for what they want. He started his price at 20E!! Then to my misfortune Trevor decided to try and help me negotiate by saying I might pay 10E! Trevor and I have now come to an understanding, He will not help negotiate prices and I will not threaten to make Frieda a widow. For the rest of the trip we laugh about this incident. I declined to purchase the cup by the way.
On the way back to the ship there are an abundance of tall palm trees. While looking at them we notice that the stumps of the removed fronds are different colors and comment on why this was. We speculate that perhaps they paint them with something to prevent disease or leaking sap of some kind. Later we discover they are not painted at all. In fact it was parrots in a riot of colors perched on the stubs of the removed fronds. There were hundreds of them!
We are off on our own to discover this beautiful town. At the dock we meet up with Trevor and Frieda, our dinner mates and decide to tag along with them for a bit.
I happen upon a 2E store. Reminds me of our $1 stores back home. 10E later I leave with a bag containing earrings to go with my Halloween costume, 2 bracelets made of polished stones and beads, a suede cowboy hat for Lee Anne to wear with her summer dresses and a nickel silver cuff bracelet that looks quite expensive. I receive comments on the cuff every time I wear it.
Cobbled streets, Roman ruins, even relics from the Phoenicians all contribute to the long and rich history here. We trek through winding wide avenues and small alleyways in search of nothing in particular. We are just enjoying the excellent sunshine and mild breeze blowing in from the harbor.
Trevor and Frieda take in a church and a mass. We decide to make our way to Plaza de San Francisco (San Francisco Square). On our way we happen upon what appears to be an archaeological dig in the middle of an old residential area. We can see through the fence what appears at first to be caves. Then on down, alleys and building walls well below what is now street level appear. It is not until later that we understand what we are seeing.
After leaving the square we happen on Trevor and Frieda again and get to hear about the beautiful cathedral they visited. We join them for a cup of coffee at a quaint sidewalk cafe where I obtain a coffee cup from a very friendly waiter who even brings me a bag to put it in. Afterward we continue on our leisurely stroll of Cartagena with no direct destination in mind.
We arrive at the Museo TeatRomano de Cartagena (Roman Theater Museum). This theater was built in the late 1st century BC and still retains its’ excellent acoustics. One can speak in a normal voice from anywhere inside and be heard with concise clarity. Small parts have been restored to what the original probably looked like to help the visitor imagine what a wonderful place it must have been. Now we realize that the excavation we saw earlier is actually part of this city during Roman times. This was the most well spent E4 (senior price - regular was only E5) we have ever spent and we were extremely happy we had decided to see it.
We start heading back to port and stop at a whardfside bistro for a cool drink since the day has turned out quite warm. There I offer to purchase another coffee cup but the manager is a young man who seems to think that all American tourists will pay anything for what they want. He started his price at 20E!! Then to my misfortune Trevor decided to try and help me negotiate by saying I might pay 10E! Trevor and I have now come to an understanding, He will not help negotiate prices and I will not threaten to make Frieda a widow. For the rest of the trip we laugh about this incident. I declined to purchase the cup by the way.
On the way back to the ship there are an abundance of tall palm trees. While looking at them we notice that the stumps of the removed fronds are different colors and comment on why this was. We speculate that perhaps they paint them with something to prevent disease or leaking sap of some kind. Later we discover they are not painted at all. In fact it was parrots in a riot of colors perched on the stubs of the removed fronds. There were hundreds of them!
Valletta, Malta
Our day in Malta was spent in the company of Vivian and Bob (our cohorts from Katakolon) and another couple from Canada, Coreen and Ken. We met them on Cruise Critic also and have teamed up to share a van and driver for the day. Coreen and Ken are on this trip to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary. Just newly weds compared to us.
We step off the ship and directly in front of the gangway is Ronald our guide and the van for our outing. We start with a short driving tour of Floriana and Valletta before heading for the ancient capital city of Mdina located at the highest point on Malta. Before reaching Mdina we stop for a scenic view of where we have been. Here even though at quite a distance we can clearly see the Mosta, the round domed church which is the third largest unsupported dome in Europe. The largest is St Peter’s in Rome, the second is the Hage’ Sophia in Istanbul and the Mosta is third. We have now been privileged to see all three. During WWII a bomb was dropped thru the dome during mass. As God would have it the bomb bounced three times before
embedding itself in the floor without exploding. The dome was repaired, the hole in the floor was not and it now contains a replica of the bomb.
Mdina is a walled medieval city that is very beautiful. Now days most of the buildings house shops geared toward the thousands of tourists who visit each year and features Malta glass shops, and of course shops selling Maltese crosses and replicas of the infamous Maltese Falcon and many restaurants. It is easy to get lost in the maze of narrow streets that wind serpent like around and through each other. But eventually you find your way back to the entrance and over the moat bridge. You can hire a horse drawn cab but the easiest way is just to walk. The horse drawn cabs are only allowed to enter Mdina if both the cab and the horse have rubber shoes so as not to damage the cobbled streets.
After leaving Mdina we drive on some of the worst roads we have encountered on our trip. We discover that we are driving on what was the British runway. Evidently they didn’t care about dips and rolls and potholes for the planes landing and taking off. I imagine this is what a stagecoach felt like in the old west. Yee! Ha! Podna!!
We head out for the Dingli Cliffs and some spectacular views of the opposite side of the island. From there it is Blue Grotto time. Tucked into a small fishing boat with an 8hp Evinrude outboard we venture into the ocean along the cliffs. In and out of small niches in the lava rock and then into the main cave of the Grotto. The water here is iridescent blues and greens, we assume caused by the lava rock. It is so clear you can see the bottom even out of the main source of light. Personally I think it was a rip-off at E7 per person but you don’t know till you have been there. The rest of our little band was very impressed so I more or less hmm’d and hawed also and kept my own council.
At 1pm we enter the Hypogeum, a series of caves scooped from solid rock in the middle of the city that was created in excess of 5000 years ago by pre-historic man as a necropolis. Over a period of 1000 years over 7000 souls were interred in these underground caves. They were discovered by accident at the turn of
the last century and are still being studied. There are several of these on the island.
The tour is in close quarters and if you can’t climb stairs don’t go. It was very interesting to see some of the paintings still visible on the ceilings and walls. And the outside of some of the chambers are carved to resemble monoliths that can be found above ground. This was all accomplished using only tools made of rock, flint and bone.
We say goodbye to Ronald and re-board our ship. Time for a quick nap before dinner.
We step off the ship and directly in front of the gangway is Ronald our guide and the van for our outing. We start with a short driving tour of Floriana and Valletta before heading for the ancient capital city of Mdina located at the highest point on Malta. Before reaching Mdina we stop for a scenic view of where we have been. Here even though at quite a distance we can clearly see the Mosta, the round domed church which is the third largest unsupported dome in Europe. The largest is St Peter’s in Rome, the second is the Hage’ Sophia in Istanbul and the Mosta is third. We have now been privileged to see all three. During WWII a bomb was dropped thru the dome during mass. As God would have it the bomb bounced three times before
embedding itself in the floor without exploding. The dome was repaired, the hole in the floor was not and it now contains a replica of the bomb.
Mdina is a walled medieval city that is very beautiful. Now days most of the buildings house shops geared toward the thousands of tourists who visit each year and features Malta glass shops, and of course shops selling Maltese crosses and replicas of the infamous Maltese Falcon and many restaurants. It is easy to get lost in the maze of narrow streets that wind serpent like around and through each other. But eventually you find your way back to the entrance and over the moat bridge. You can hire a horse drawn cab but the easiest way is just to walk. The horse drawn cabs are only allowed to enter Mdina if both the cab and the horse have rubber shoes so as not to damage the cobbled streets.
After leaving Mdina we drive on some of the worst roads we have encountered on our trip. We discover that we are driving on what was the British runway. Evidently they didn’t care about dips and rolls and potholes for the planes landing and taking off. I imagine this is what a stagecoach felt like in the old west. Yee! Ha! Podna!!
We head out for the Dingli Cliffs and some spectacular views of the opposite side of the island. From there it is Blue Grotto time. Tucked into a small fishing boat with an 8hp Evinrude outboard we venture into the ocean along the cliffs. In and out of small niches in the lava rock and then into the main cave of the Grotto. The water here is iridescent blues and greens, we assume caused by the lava rock. It is so clear you can see the bottom even out of the main source of light. Personally I think it was a rip-off at E7 per person but you don’t know till you have been there. The rest of our little band was very impressed so I more or less hmm’d and hawed also and kept my own council.
At 1pm we enter the Hypogeum, a series of caves scooped from solid rock in the middle of the city that was created in excess of 5000 years ago by pre-historic man as a necropolis. Over a period of 1000 years over 7000 souls were interred in these underground caves. They were discovered by accident at the turn of
the last century and are still being studied. There are several of these on the island.
The tour is in close quarters and if you can’t climb stairs don’t go. It was very interesting to see some of the paintings still visible on the ceilings and walls. And the outside of some of the chambers are carved to resemble monoliths that can be found above ground. This was all accomplished using only tools made of rock, flint and bone.
We say goodbye to Ronald and re-board our ship. Time for a quick nap before dinner.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Lisbon (Lisboa), Portugal
According to fanciful legend, Ulysses established Lisbon. Scholars and less romantically inclined observers argue that Phoenician sailors were probably the first settlers - at least they were the first to be documented. Later, explorers led by Vasco da Gama, departed from Lisbon in search of a route to India. Instead, they discovered new lands. Sailors under command of Pedro Alvares Cabral reached Brazil.
In 1755 the majority of Lisbon’s buildings were completely destroyed by a massive earthquake that they continue to talk about today. In 1834 all of the monasteries and convents were ousted with the extinction of the religious orders and they were all confiscated and sold off to private owners.
We have scheduled another tour with Top Day Tours for today. We consist of six plus Antonio, our guide. On our agenda is an overview of Lisbon with its ancient now defunct monasteries, and the towns of Sintra and Estoril. In old Lisboa we encounter steep narrow cobbled streets that are barely wide enough to accommodate our vehicle without scraping the sides of buildings on either side. In some cases pedestrians must turn, back against the wall to avoid our side mirrors. Antonio is not as forthcoming with historic information as our other guides have been. He rushes almost willy nilly from one place to the next with little explanation until both Michelle and I begin to throw questions at him. Some he gives grudging information about, others he just says “it’s a building, nothing to know about it.” Oh boy, this is gonna be a
fuuun day. He seems more interested in showing us all the five star hotels and the million dollar plus condos.
Finally he stops so we can take a few pictures at the top of a boulevard overlooking the city and the sea. It appears to be some kind of commemorative, possibly for Portuguese independence, mind you I speak even less Portuguese than I do Spanish or Italian, but how would we know since all our Antonio says is it’s a good place for pictures and views, nothing more. I have spotted a very old woman and her husband selling dishtowels and other souvenirs on the sidewalk just up from us. Antonio doesn’t look very happy when I approach and start looking at her offerings. He has already said he will take us to a shop in Sintra for our shopping. Still, I like to buy early and at a reasonable price and in most cases have found that local sidewalk vendors off the beaten path and not in a storefront have better bargains. So I buy embroidered dishtowels for E1 each and return to the van. Now it has become a challenge to see how much information Antonio will give without verbal cues. He keeps asking what we want to see and do. We keep telling him we want to see his country and learn as much as we can in this one day that we have. We tell him we consider him the professional and will put ourselves in his hands. He doesn’t want any part of it so he asks again what we want to see and do, but he could take us here or there he says. Ooookay, well we will get it figured out I’m sure by the end of the day. And if not, Lisbon will be here next time and Antonio will not make a very good tip today. Mr Passive/Aggressive will not get the best of us!
That decision made, off we go to Sintra, another cobbled partially walled town that has great architecture and beautiful scenery ranging from gently rolling hills to steep rocky mountains with chasms of sheer rock covered in trees that cling to life by sheer terror and determination. Our ultimate destination here is Parque e Palacio da Pena (The Park & Palace of Pena’) built between 1842 and 1854 by Don Fernando II on the site, purchased in 1838, of one of those “abandoned” monasteries I mentioned earlier. The palace is located at the crest of a small mountain, surrounded by almost 85 hectares of historic gardens that transformed a barren hill into the first Cultural Landscape listed by UNESCO in Europe. The road leading to Pena’ is steep and winding so we ask to stop so we can take a few pictures of the castle. Antonio is very willing and starts to pull to the side of the road. Suddenly he makes a decision! Turning into a driveway leading to what looks like a private home, but is now a five star hotel, he says he knows a great place to get pictures of the castle! Antonio, you may have almost redeemed yourself! The Tivoli is the epitome of a French villa with sculptured lawns, secret gardens with maze-like hedges, and stone arches leading to shade covered benches with views through the arch of the castle atop the mountain. WOW!!! what a great vista point. We get some wonderful pictures before we head out for the top of the mountain and the castle.
Ever heard the saying about having more money than taste or brains? Pena’ Palace, is a five story testimony and the perfect example of opulent overkill using every architectural style and embellishment available, put together by a delusional child with telekinetic powers and a bad temper. ZAP!, a gargoyle! WHAM!, a Moorish arch! BAM!, a turret! WHOOSH!, a tile encrusted arch leading to a tiny courtyard! POW! Knights in armor on handmade 4in x 4in tiles covering an entire wall next to another wall covered in tile depicting acanthus leaves, next to an adjacent wall with tile depicting geometric patterns! You get dizzy taking it all in because your eyes are bouncing around like a ping pong ball in a spinning dryer. Why would someone build something like this you ask? Simply because they can. Don‘t get me wrong. I love this place. It is said that it is the “finest example of 19th century Portuguese Romanticism and the integration of natural and built heritage“. And remember my motto-(or at least one of them) “There is nothing wrong with more.”
After our visit we remind Antonio that we wanted to locate a place to buy tiles from the area, to which he says that we didn’t want to stop in Sintra before and we reminded him of the crowds and traffic. So, almost begrudgingly, back to Sintra for shopping we go. Antonio bypasses several places Michelle asked to stop at saying he knows a better place that will be one stop shopping just up the street. Uh oh, sounds like code for commission paid environment. We agree to meet back at the van in 30 minutes and everyone scatters to the four winds much to Antonio‘s dismay.
I am not going to even talk about the overpriced tourist trap restaurant by the sea we were taken to for lunch. We moved on, without a meal, to the “Portuguese Riviera” city of Estoril. Estoril is the Portuguese equivalent of Monte Carlo. It was the home of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor until they became too friendly with the Germans during WWII and were relegated to the Caribbean. Here live the very rich and famous. They also have a casino and yachts. That said, the town is still picturesque and has many beautiful historic homes and buildings.
On down the coast we go back to Lisbon and finally our ship. All day we have been seeing colorful roosters on dishtowels, key chains and all kinds of other souvenirs. We asked Antonio what it represented and got one of the famous non answers about it represents Portugal. Finally we find a local who is willing to tell us the Portuguesa rooster is a good luck symbol. So I buy one for my charm bracelet and we get on the ship in just enough time to head for dinner. We are starving since we have split only a small fish empanada and a beer the entire day since the lunch location didn’t work out. Ummm… dinner was wonderful.
P.S.- Antonio didn't make out well today with tips or a free lunch in the expensive restaurant he took us to.
In 1755 the majority of Lisbon’s buildings were completely destroyed by a massive earthquake that they continue to talk about today. In 1834 all of the monasteries and convents were ousted with the extinction of the religious orders and they were all confiscated and sold off to private owners.
We have scheduled another tour with Top Day Tours for today. We consist of six plus Antonio, our guide. On our agenda is an overview of Lisbon with its ancient now defunct monasteries, and the towns of Sintra and Estoril. In old Lisboa we encounter steep narrow cobbled streets that are barely wide enough to accommodate our vehicle without scraping the sides of buildings on either side. In some cases pedestrians must turn, back against the wall to avoid our side mirrors. Antonio is not as forthcoming with historic information as our other guides have been. He rushes almost willy nilly from one place to the next with little explanation until both Michelle and I begin to throw questions at him. Some he gives grudging information about, others he just says “it’s a building, nothing to know about it.” Oh boy, this is gonna be a
fuuun day. He seems more interested in showing us all the five star hotels and the million dollar plus condos.
Finally he stops so we can take a few pictures at the top of a boulevard overlooking the city and the sea. It appears to be some kind of commemorative, possibly for Portuguese independence, mind you I speak even less Portuguese than I do Spanish or Italian, but how would we know since all our Antonio says is it’s a good place for pictures and views, nothing more. I have spotted a very old woman and her husband selling dishtowels and other souvenirs on the sidewalk just up from us. Antonio doesn’t look very happy when I approach and start looking at her offerings. He has already said he will take us to a shop in Sintra for our shopping. Still, I like to buy early and at a reasonable price and in most cases have found that local sidewalk vendors off the beaten path and not in a storefront have better bargains. So I buy embroidered dishtowels for E1 each and return to the van. Now it has become a challenge to see how much information Antonio will give without verbal cues. He keeps asking what we want to see and do. We keep telling him we want to see his country and learn as much as we can in this one day that we have. We tell him we consider him the professional and will put ourselves in his hands. He doesn’t want any part of it so he asks again what we want to see and do, but he could take us here or there he says. Ooookay, well we will get it figured out I’m sure by the end of the day. And if not, Lisbon will be here next time and Antonio will not make a very good tip today. Mr Passive/Aggressive will not get the best of us!
That decision made, off we go to Sintra, another cobbled partially walled town that has great architecture and beautiful scenery ranging from gently rolling hills to steep rocky mountains with chasms of sheer rock covered in trees that cling to life by sheer terror and determination. Our ultimate destination here is Parque e Palacio da Pena (The Park & Palace of Pena’) built between 1842 and 1854 by Don Fernando II on the site, purchased in 1838, of one of those “abandoned” monasteries I mentioned earlier. The palace is located at the crest of a small mountain, surrounded by almost 85 hectares of historic gardens that transformed a barren hill into the first Cultural Landscape listed by UNESCO in Europe. The road leading to Pena’ is steep and winding so we ask to stop so we can take a few pictures of the castle. Antonio is very willing and starts to pull to the side of the road. Suddenly he makes a decision! Turning into a driveway leading to what looks like a private home, but is now a five star hotel, he says he knows a great place to get pictures of the castle! Antonio, you may have almost redeemed yourself! The Tivoli is the epitome of a French villa with sculptured lawns, secret gardens with maze-like hedges, and stone arches leading to shade covered benches with views through the arch of the castle atop the mountain. WOW!!! what a great vista point. We get some wonderful pictures before we head out for the top of the mountain and the castle.
Ever heard the saying about having more money than taste or brains? Pena’ Palace, is a five story testimony and the perfect example of opulent overkill using every architectural style and embellishment available, put together by a delusional child with telekinetic powers and a bad temper. ZAP!, a gargoyle! WHAM!, a Moorish arch! BAM!, a turret! WHOOSH!, a tile encrusted arch leading to a tiny courtyard! POW! Knights in armor on handmade 4in x 4in tiles covering an entire wall next to another wall covered in tile depicting acanthus leaves, next to an adjacent wall with tile depicting geometric patterns! You get dizzy taking it all in because your eyes are bouncing around like a ping pong ball in a spinning dryer. Why would someone build something like this you ask? Simply because they can. Don‘t get me wrong. I love this place. It is said that it is the “finest example of 19th century Portuguese Romanticism and the integration of natural and built heritage“. And remember my motto-(or at least one of them) “There is nothing wrong with more.”
After our visit we remind Antonio that we wanted to locate a place to buy tiles from the area, to which he says that we didn’t want to stop in Sintra before and we reminded him of the crowds and traffic. So, almost begrudgingly, back to Sintra for shopping we go. Antonio bypasses several places Michelle asked to stop at saying he knows a better place that will be one stop shopping just up the street. Uh oh, sounds like code for commission paid environment. We agree to meet back at the van in 30 minutes and everyone scatters to the four winds much to Antonio‘s dismay.
I am not going to even talk about the overpriced tourist trap restaurant by the sea we were taken to for lunch. We moved on, without a meal, to the “Portuguese Riviera” city of Estoril. Estoril is the Portuguese equivalent of Monte Carlo. It was the home of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor until they became too friendly with the Germans during WWII and were relegated to the Caribbean. Here live the very rich and famous. They also have a casino and yachts. That said, the town is still picturesque and has many beautiful historic homes and buildings.
On down the coast we go back to Lisbon and finally our ship. All day we have been seeing colorful roosters on dishtowels, key chains and all kinds of other souvenirs. We asked Antonio what it represented and got one of the famous non answers about it represents Portugal. Finally we find a local who is willing to tell us the Portuguesa rooster is a good luck symbol. So I buy one for my charm bracelet and we get on the ship in just enough time to head for dinner. We are starving since we have split only a small fish empanada and a beer the entire day since the lunch location didn’t work out. Ummm… dinner was wonderful.
P.S.- Antonio didn't make out well today with tips or a free lunch in the expensive restaurant he took us to.
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Civitavecchia, Italy
The ship provided shuttle took us through the port to Fort Michelangelo. We spent the day exploring this bustling city.
Civitavecchia means “Ancient Town”. Evidence shows that people lived here before history was ever recorded. This port city was built by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd Century and became one of the most important cities of ancient Rome. The Middle Ages brought a final period of general lawlessness to the Mediterranean region. The port was sacked and burned several times in the 15th century.
Once again we had rain showers and a brisk breeze, so our first order of business was to replace the umbrella we broke in Venice. We found a tiny souvenir shop that was advertised on every street corner from the time we got off the shuttle. Frank’s Place carried a limited number of Italy souvenirs, 6-8 different local wines, a few books and one umbrella that Frank discounted for me since we bought a bottle of wine and a Book with DVD of Rome. His prices were less than most of the other souvenir kiosks we find on our travels and Frank’s English was that wonderful lilting sing song of Italy. Frank thanked us sincerely and extracted a promise that we would stop in next year when we came back through. The wine by the way was excellent.
From there we walked up several blocks and cut back in toward the center of town. Here we found a large open air market containing some of the most beautiful fruits, vegetables and flowers we have seen to date. Persimmons as big as Tony’s fist in the brightest hot-yellow-orange, small aubergere eggplants the perfect size for stuffing or breading and frying in olive oil, dazzling gerbera daisies in myriads of colors mixed with sunflowers, button and spiked chrysanthemums, leather fern, carnations, roses, banana leaves, and more, in bunches small and large. I was so tempted to purchase a mixed bunch for our cabin onboard, but I could see Tony looking at me like I was crazy so I resisted the temptation. We continued out the other end of the huge tent into a square we hadn’t known was there. Here was even more of what we had just seen in the open with individual market umbrellas over the stalls. Next to this was a semi enclosed tent building that held permanent shops for meats, cheeses, butter, olives, sun dried tomatoes, plastic tubes of tomato paste, dried red chile peppers woven onto ropes, and a plethora of other food stuffs. Alas, we are not allowed to bring any spices back into the country that are not sealed in airtight packages. But the smell is wonderful!
The outside corners contained small shops selling sweaters, scarves, blouses, and other manner of clothing. Most of it in sizes that might accommodate my arm or leg with the help of numerous safety pins and an abundance of stretching. A few steps past this market and across a narrow cobbled street is an equally huge flea market with everything from duct tape to underwear. Here I purchase several pashminas for just a few Euro each. I bought some last year in Rome and everyone loved them. Such pretty and inexpensive souvenirs that pack wonderfully!
We venture back downhill toward our beginning point. We follow our noses, once more, to a small leather shop on the corner before the main street. Here I purchase a wonderful classic leather tote/purse for E35 that is soft and pliable and will probably outlast me and get passed on to Sophia. I purchase a second one for Lee Anne as a birthday present.
We make a stop for a cup of coffee and free WiFi before heading back to the ship. And of course our server is down at home. So much for saving a few bucks from our onboard plan. On our way we spot a phone center and decide to call Annie instead of the usual email. For E.60 cent connect fee and E.10 cents per minute we can call and talk for a few minutes. It is 3 am at home but she is glad to hear from us and we assure ourselves that “all is well on the Western Front” for a grand total of E1.
Back onboard we get comfy and warm with another cup of coffee and our books on the Lido while we watch the new passengers board and start learning their way around their new home for the next 18 days.
Civitavecchia means “Ancient Town”. Evidence shows that people lived here before history was ever recorded. This port city was built by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd Century and became one of the most important cities of ancient Rome. The Middle Ages brought a final period of general lawlessness to the Mediterranean region. The port was sacked and burned several times in the 15th century.
Once again we had rain showers and a brisk breeze, so our first order of business was to replace the umbrella we broke in Venice. We found a tiny souvenir shop that was advertised on every street corner from the time we got off the shuttle. Frank’s Place carried a limited number of Italy souvenirs, 6-8 different local wines, a few books and one umbrella that Frank discounted for me since we bought a bottle of wine and a Book with DVD of Rome. His prices were less than most of the other souvenir kiosks we find on our travels and Frank’s English was that wonderful lilting sing song of Italy. Frank thanked us sincerely and extracted a promise that we would stop in next year when we came back through. The wine by the way was excellent.
From there we walked up several blocks and cut back in toward the center of town. Here we found a large open air market containing some of the most beautiful fruits, vegetables and flowers we have seen to date. Persimmons as big as Tony’s fist in the brightest hot-yellow-orange, small aubergere eggplants the perfect size for stuffing or breading and frying in olive oil, dazzling gerbera daisies in myriads of colors mixed with sunflowers, button and spiked chrysanthemums, leather fern, carnations, roses, banana leaves, and more, in bunches small and large. I was so tempted to purchase a mixed bunch for our cabin onboard, but I could see Tony looking at me like I was crazy so I resisted the temptation. We continued out the other end of the huge tent into a square we hadn’t known was there. Here was even more of what we had just seen in the open with individual market umbrellas over the stalls. Next to this was a semi enclosed tent building that held permanent shops for meats, cheeses, butter, olives, sun dried tomatoes, plastic tubes of tomato paste, dried red chile peppers woven onto ropes, and a plethora of other food stuffs. Alas, we are not allowed to bring any spices back into the country that are not sealed in airtight packages. But the smell is wonderful!
The outside corners contained small shops selling sweaters, scarves, blouses, and other manner of clothing. Most of it in sizes that might accommodate my arm or leg with the help of numerous safety pins and an abundance of stretching. A few steps past this market and across a narrow cobbled street is an equally huge flea market with everything from duct tape to underwear. Here I purchase several pashminas for just a few Euro each. I bought some last year in Rome and everyone loved them. Such pretty and inexpensive souvenirs that pack wonderfully!
We venture back downhill toward our beginning point. We follow our noses, once more, to a small leather shop on the corner before the main street. Here I purchase a wonderful classic leather tote/purse for E35 that is soft and pliable and will probably outlast me and get passed on to Sophia. I purchase a second one for Lee Anne as a birthday present.
We make a stop for a cup of coffee and free WiFi before heading back to the ship. And of course our server is down at home. So much for saving a few bucks from our onboard plan. On our way we spot a phone center and decide to call Annie instead of the usual email. For E.60 cent connect fee and E.10 cents per minute we can call and talk for a few minutes. It is 3 am at home but she is glad to hear from us and we assure ourselves that “all is well on the Western Front” for a grand total of E1.
Back onboard we get comfy and warm with another cup of coffee and our books on the Lido while we watch the new passengers board and start learning their way around their new home for the next 18 days.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Kotor, Montenegro
It is a short sail from Dubrovnik to this picturesque town farther down the coast in the tiny country of Montenegro. We have decided to dub this “field trip” Land of the Walled Cities. So far we have had walled towns at each of out ports of call with more to come. Each has been amazing.
All of these countries were feudal in the middle ages and therefore their fortifications were extensive. In addition this part of the world was forever on the move to expand and explore with one kingdom, fiefdom, or tribe trying to conquer and subdue their neighbor even if that neighbor was a continent or two away.
Kotor was no exception to any of these, so, the fortifications made sense if they were to preserve any independence. As we look from our balcony we see 1350 steps leading zigzag up an almost sheer rock mountain to a fort overlooking the bay. This bay is twenty two miles deep and the city of Kotor lays at the very end.
Once again we see lovely homes, walls, streets, roads and docks made of rock. Today we have chosen to stay onboard as it is pouring rain again and we must tender into this port. If the rain stops for a period later we might decide to venture ashore. Then again the view is quite lovely and the ship is oh so quiet and calm with most of the passengers shoving, pushing and all around jockeying for position in line and on land to “get their monies worth”. Some days we just defy the crowds and choose not to participate and we have all the deck chairs, hot tubs, pools, and saunas to ourselves. We win, neener neener !!
No one knows exactly when Kotor was founded. The name is Greek meaning “wells” but there were residents here long before Greek settlers arrived. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities and was designed with dual purposes : aesthetic beauty and an attempt to thwart invaders. Its main fortification was a wall, 3 miles long, 60 foot high, and 45 feet thick! Needless to say it still exists.
All of these countries were feudal in the middle ages and therefore their fortifications were extensive. In addition this part of the world was forever on the move to expand and explore with one kingdom, fiefdom, or tribe trying to conquer and subdue their neighbor even if that neighbor was a continent or two away.
Kotor was no exception to any of these, so, the fortifications made sense if they were to preserve any independence. As we look from our balcony we see 1350 steps leading zigzag up an almost sheer rock mountain to a fort overlooking the bay. This bay is twenty two miles deep and the city of Kotor lays at the very end.
Once again we see lovely homes, walls, streets, roads and docks made of rock. Today we have chosen to stay onboard as it is pouring rain again and we must tender into this port. If the rain stops for a period later we might decide to venture ashore. Then again the view is quite lovely and the ship is oh so quiet and calm with most of the passengers shoving, pushing and all around jockeying for position in line and on land to “get their monies worth”. Some days we just defy the crowds and choose not to participate and we have all the deck chairs, hot tubs, pools, and saunas to ourselves. We win, neener neener !!
No one knows exactly when Kotor was founded. The name is Greek meaning “wells” but there were residents here long before Greek settlers arrived. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities and was designed with dual purposes : aesthetic beauty and an attempt to thwart invaders. Its main fortification was a wall, 3 miles long, 60 foot high, and 45 feet thick! Needless to say it still exists.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Dubrovnik, Croasia
From the time we sailed out of Venice through the Grand Canal until we docked in Dubrovnik it rained. Then almost like one of the Gods smiling the clouds and wind and rain retreated and our day in this lovely place was perfect.
This medieval town boasts a walled city that has survived just about anything one can imagine. Richard the Lion Heart was here during the Crusades along with conquerors from almost ever other era of history and yet Dubrovnik not only survives but flourishes within its natural beauty. Beauty that is polished and clean and unassuming. We couldn’t get over the fact that unlike other ancient sites we have visited, this one is CLEAN!!! No litter anywhere. It was a bit eerie at first because it seemed almost too perfect.
Picture if you will the landscape of, The Sound of Music, and Heidi minus the snow. A walled city that defies the reality of the Serb war in the early 90’s. All the streets are cobbled stone. From one corner to the next are open air cafés, tiny stores tucked into niches in the walls, local vendors set up along outer walls, churches with quiet, cool, dark interiors that give shelter from the noise of the tourists who flock here. The main attraction in the walled city is to climb the many steps to the top of the wall and then walk the wall that encircles the town. We were with our dinner mates Trevor and Frieda thankfully, so we didn’t walk the wall but we did walk completely around the entire city and that was enough. My short little legs were very tired since I usually end up taking 3 steps to everyone else’s one in order to keep up. Ah such are the challenges of a short fluffy person.
We found a local craft and farmers market taking place in one of the courtyards in the center of town. As we came around the corner the smell of lavender engulfed us. Evidently the harvest had recently taken place because there was everything imaginable containing lavender. Offerings included lavender infused olive oil, lavender sachets, lavender wands, lavendersoaps, even lavender liqueurs. The last of these were a little off putting to me but others were buying them. Dubrovnik also offers embroidery and other handmade items such as crochet, and olive oil with different herbs and flowers to scent and season. I purchased a tiny bottle of cherry liqueur and a small pinwheel patterned doily that reminded me of one Grandma Recupero had made for me 40 years ago. That and a postcard were my only souvenirs of this little kingdom by the sea.
We were in this port until midnight and some of the other passengers were returning to town for a concert in the evening. Not us, our day was complete and it was time for the hot tub and a lounge chair to put ones feet up. And maybe a nap before dinner? Hmmm… why not.
This medieval town boasts a walled city that has survived just about anything one can imagine. Richard the Lion Heart was here during the Crusades along with conquerors from almost ever other era of history and yet Dubrovnik not only survives but flourishes within its natural beauty. Beauty that is polished and clean and unassuming. We couldn’t get over the fact that unlike other ancient sites we have visited, this one is CLEAN!!! No litter anywhere. It was a bit eerie at first because it seemed almost too perfect.
Picture if you will the landscape of, The Sound of Music, and Heidi minus the snow. A walled city that defies the reality of the Serb war in the early 90’s. All the streets are cobbled stone. From one corner to the next are open air cafés, tiny stores tucked into niches in the walls, local vendors set up along outer walls, churches with quiet, cool, dark interiors that give shelter from the noise of the tourists who flock here. The main attraction in the walled city is to climb the many steps to the top of the wall and then walk the wall that encircles the town. We were with our dinner mates Trevor and Frieda thankfully, so we didn’t walk the wall but we did walk completely around the entire city and that was enough. My short little legs were very tired since I usually end up taking 3 steps to everyone else’s one in order to keep up. Ah such are the challenges of a short fluffy person.
We found a local craft and farmers market taking place in one of the courtyards in the center of town. As we came around the corner the smell of lavender engulfed us. Evidently the harvest had recently taken place because there was everything imaginable containing lavender. Offerings included lavender infused olive oil, lavender sachets, lavender wands, lavendersoaps, even lavender liqueurs. The last of these were a little off putting to me but others were buying them. Dubrovnik also offers embroidery and other handmade items such as crochet, and olive oil with different herbs and flowers to scent and season. I purchased a tiny bottle of cherry liqueur and a small pinwheel patterned doily that reminded me of one Grandma Recupero had made for me 40 years ago. That and a postcard were my only souvenirs of this little kingdom by the sea.
We were in this port until midnight and some of the other passengers were returning to town for a concert in the evening. Not us, our day was complete and it was time for the hot tub and a lounge chair to put ones feet up. And maybe a nap before dinner? Hmmm… why not.
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