Thursday, August 25, 2011

Cadiz/Seville, Spain

Cadiz stands on a peninsula jutting out into a bay. Named Gadir by the Phoenicians, who founded it as a trading port in 1100 BC, it was later controlled by the Carthaginians before it became a thriving Roman port. It fades during the Visigoths and Moors but came back into prominence in the early 16th century as the launch point of journeys to the “New World” of the Americas. Sir Francis Drake later raided Cadiz in the struggle to control trade in America. The city was one of few in Spain able to withstand a siege by Napoleon’s army.
Today however, we will venture out from Cadiz port about an hour or so to Sevilla. Upon arrival we are apprised of all the orange trees. However these are not orange trees as we know them, but inedible ones that are bitter and only used to make marmalade. The Seville orange is world reknown and most of the marmalade sold in England comes from Spain.

Angeles (Ong ga lace), our guide, meets us at a park like area to lead us through a visit to the sites of the 1929 World’s Fair, the old city outside the walls of Reales Alcazres “the Alcazar”, and of course the palace itself. These and the ancient custom of bull fighting are among just some of the sites and stories of Sevilla or Seville. The fair site is extremely well preserved and each of the buildings and venues are in use today. The entire site is covered with exquisite hand-made tile work in every conceivable design and color. The plaza of the main area is enormous and contains several bridges representing the different “states” that existed at the time along with their coats of arms done in tile on the steps and tops. All of the handrails, light post, planters, plant urns, and benches are covered in tile or made from ceramic. In most cases each tells a story of some kind relating to the history of Spain through the centuries. On our way back to our bus we traverse a small park whose central site is a huge tree surrounded by a statue depicting the Three Stages of Love from first blush to the final aged finale with inclusion of cupid in his different forms. Because the tree continues to grow it is necessary to cut the surround on occasion and add expansion sections to it. This entire area is covered with horse drawn carriages taking people site-seeing. Most of the customers are locals and wedding participants with brides and grooms dressed in beautiful native garments. Angeles has decided we will walk the old Jewish ghetto outside the walls first. Here is a maze of winding, uneven cobbled alleyways jumbled together with convents and private homes and businesses crammed together. No cars can come into this area unless there is a garage for them to park in. The properties with garages are the most expensive and valuable in the whole city. We follow Angeles closely because getting lost in here would be very easy to do. She stops to show us a street so narrow it is called the “kissing street“ since it is possible to stand on a balcony on either side of the street and kiss across with no problem. An average sized person can stand in the middle and place their hands on the houses on each side of the street. Finally it is time to enter Reales Alcazres “the Alcazar”. Reales Alcazres is a palace similar in style of the Alhambra but not near so elegant, is much smaller, and sadly beautiful considering the creator Peter I of Castille (known as “Pedro el Cruel”). It took 30 years to complete the most magnificent parts of the complex using a combination of wood, elaborate stucco, and magnificent azulejos (hand painted tile), and lavish gardens. At the end of our time with Angeles I go back to the main exit where I spotted a man creating watercolor. He and his wife are very elderly, but his little paintings are exquisite and I buy one plus a tiny bookmark depicting the “kissing street”. Now we have a few free hours and it is time once again to find FOOD! We spot what appears to be a target rich environment down a side street that looks familiar since we think we might have passed this way during our old city walk. It is called Dona’ Lina and is very small, cramped, and very busy with local traffic. Oh Yeah! We find a tiny table for 4 and wedge ourselves between other tables to get seated. No one minds moving over a bit here, a bit there so we can sit. It is all done with little fuss and many smiles and thanks in both Spanish and English. We order tapas once again since this menu boasts items not seen in other ports. Deep fried anchovies again,
potatoes, chorizo, pork, fresh bread to die for, Sangria, and for dessert a platter of mixed flans. I personally don’t care for flan or custard but the others said it was wonderful. Sated once again it is time to meet our driver and head back to Cadiz and our ship. Tonight we have a Halloween costume party and I have found a fan, castanets, and a rose embroidered shawl to transform myself into “The Lady of Spain”. Tony will be my OPEC oil executive with the help of one of my caftans and a napkin filched from the Lido Restaurant tied with a long scarf. David and Susan are Dorothy and the Scarecrow from Wizard of Oz fame. Your need to understand that Susan is 6 feet tall in her stocking feet and with the Ruby Red Slippers she made, stands a statuesque 6’3”. They won the costume contest and we came in second in a game of wrap a mummy with toilet paper. Hey!, don't  laugh it netted us a free bottle of champagne!

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